Устройство дымохода из сэндвич труб через крышу: Монтаж дымохода из сэндвич труб через крышу

Общеизвестно, что для функционирования источников тепла любого типа, за исключением, быть может, электрического котла, требуется система удаления продуктов сгорания топлива. Можно обустроить дымоход в виде традиционной кирпичной трубы, также возможно применить для решения этой задачи современные композитные материалы.

В настоящее время широкое распространение среди профессиональных строителей и владельцев частных домов получили металлические сэндвич дымоходы. Они отличаются прекрасными эксплуатационными качествами и долгим сроком службы. Установка дымохода сэндвич своими руками не представляет заметных сложностей и может быть выполнена заметно быстрее строительства обычной трубы из кирпича при соблюдении правильной технологии сборки.

Преимущества и недостатки дымохода из сэндвич трубы

Применение металлических труб для удаления продуктов сгорания топлива практикуется с давних времен. Это обуславливается тем, что их форма оптимальна для истечения горячих газов, на гладкой внутренней поверхности меньше образуется наростов сажи. Помимо этого, по сравнению с кирпичной кладкой, значительно упрощаются монтажные работы.

Дымоходы, изготовленные из металлических труб, подвергаются воздействию агрессивных раскаленных газов. Это приводит к развитию коррозионных процессов и, в конечном итоге, к прогоранию вытяжной системы. Применение для ее изготовления стойких к коррозии металлических сплавов решает проблему лишь частично, при этом остаются следующие негативные факторы:

• Снижение тяги в дымоходе из-за высокой теплопроводности металла. Это обуславливается быстрым охлаждением горячих газов во внешних участках конструкции, контактирующей с окружающей средой.
• Конденсация паров влаги на внутренних поверхностях труб вследствие разницы температур. Это приводит к снижению их проходимости и способствует образованию сажевого налета.
• Раскаленный металлический дымоход представляет пожарную опасность. Могут возгореться элементы строительной конструкции, прикосновение к поверхности которых заканчивается для человека ожогом.

Конструкция сэндвич дымоходов, представляющая собой разделенные теплоизолирующей прокладкой коаксиально расположенные трубы, позволяет избавиться от подобных неприятных явлений. Внутренняя труба изготавливается из сплава металла, стойкого к коррозии, внешняя — зачастую делается тоже. Термоизоляционная прокладка выполняется чаще всего из плотной минеральной ваты. Сэндвичные трубы для монтажа дымохода позволяют предохранить канал удаления дыма от температурных колебаний внешней среды. Дымоходные трубы сэндвич обладают следующими преимуществами:

• минимальным образованием конденсата;
• хорошей тягой;
• пожарной безопасностью;
• возможностью монтажа снаружи здания;
• длительным сроком службы.

Сэндвич трубу можно изготовить своими руками

К недостаткам элементов сэндвич дымоходов относится возможная разгерметизация конструкции в процессе длительной эксплуатации. При резких температурных колебаниях внешней среды может нарушиться механическая целостность изделия. К тому же они имеют достаточно высокую стоимость. Разумеется, сэндвич труба, установленная своими руками, снижает материальные издержки.

Качество материалов трубы имеет решающее значение

Работоспособность и срок службы сэндвич дымохода во многом зависит от качества материала, из которого изготовлены его трубы. Популярность у потребителей порождает большое количество контрафактной продукции, поэтому следует обращать особое внимание на свойства металла, из которого изготавливаются сэндвичные трубы.

При ее прогорании велика вероятность возникновения пожара и отравления жильцов угарным газом.

Визуально определить качество металла не представляется возможным, поэтому нужно разбираться в его марках. Марки нержавеющей стали имеют следующие характеристики:

• К наиболее дешевым относится сталь АISI 430. Ее можно использовать для изготовления внешней трубы, атмосферные воздействия не принесут вреда, а вот для обустройства внутреннего дымоходного канала стойкости этого материала явно недостаточно.
• В марке металла АISI 439 стойкость к коррозии и механическую прочность повышают включенные в его состав добавки титана . Эту сталь можно использовать для удаления продуктов сгорания топлива в газовых печах и небольших котлах.
• Высокую сопротивляемость агрессивным химическим средам и воздействию высоких температур обеспечивают добавки молибдена и никеля в сталь марки АISI 316. Ее применение возможно в системах удаления дыма любого котельного оборудования.
• Универсальными эксплуатационными характеристиками отличаются нержавейки марок АISI 316i и АISI 321. Они выдерживают нагревание до очень высоких температур и обладают высокой коррозионной стойкостью.
• Наиболее высокой ценой и эксплуатационными качествами отличается нержавеющая сталь АISI 310S. Она выдерживает нагрев до тысячи градусов по Цельсию, поэтому применяется в любых генераторах тепловой энергии.

Результат применения некачественных труб

В технической документации качественных изделий обязательно обозначается марка стали, из которой они изготовлены. Следует насторожиться, если эта информация отсутствует, в этом случае легко нарваться на контрафактную продукцию.

Заметим, что магнит не притягивается к нержавеющей стали с легирующими добавками, поэтому проверить метал можно и таким простым способом.

Влияние вида топлива на выбор дымохода

На выбор дымохода большое влияние оказывает вид сжигаемого в генераторе тепловой энергии топлива. Очень важен химический состав продуктов сгорания. При горении природного газа образуется вода, углекислый газ и немного сажи, а при сжигании дров, угля или жидкого топлива образуется множество химически агрессивных компонентов.

В любом случае внутренняя поверхность дымохода должна обладать низкой адгезией и химической инертностью к воздействию кислотных компонентов. Твердые или жидкие сорта топлива предъявляют повышенные требования к качеству материалов, из которых изготавливаются дымоходные трубы.

Большое практическое значение имеет температура образующегося дыма. Вытяжку котлов на газовом топливе можно подключать в дымовой канал через гофрированный алюминиевый рукав, а вот для твердого топлива он уже не подойдет. Здесь потребуется применение материалов более устойчивых к воздействию высоких температур, особенно поблизости от выхода продуктов сгорания.

Перечень конструкционных элементов сэндвичных дымоходов

Сэндвич дымоход представляет собой конструкцию, собираемую из отдельных сегментов. Сегменты дымохода сэндвич: внутри трубы большего диаметра помещается труба меньшего сечения, между ними находится плотный термоизолирующий материал, чаще всего базальтовая вата. Она не боится химических и физических воздействий, легко переносит значительные перепады температур.

Материалом для изготовления труб служит нержавеющая сталь, медь, латунь или алюминий. Медные и латунные трубы стоят дорого. Алюминий значительно дешевле, но он сильно изменяет геометрические размеры при нагреве и остывании, поэтому возможно нарушение герметичности изготовленного из него дымохода.

Перечень элементов дымохода из сэндвич труб

Обустройство системы удаления дыма требует применения для ее монтажа множества элементов. Основными деталями вытяжного канала для удаления продуктов сгорания являются:

• отрезки труб прямой формы;
• тройники и коленные сочленения;
• патрубки для проходов через межэтажные перекрытия;
• уплотнитель для трубы, проведенной сквозь крышу.

Наравне с этими элементами есть множество других монтажных приспособлений, облегчающих выполнение работы и дальнейшую эксплуатацию системы вытяжки. На элементах здания трубы дымохода закрепляются при помощи кронштейнов, которые размещаются через каждые два метра канала отвода газов. Использующиеся для монтажа хомуты фиксируются на стене крепежными элементами, соответствующими строительному материалу, из которого эта стена изготовлена.

Собирать своими руками сэндвичные дымоходы нужно, соблюдая схему соединения деталей конструкции. Для надежного функционирования системы монтаж труб дымохода сэндвич нужно выполнять аккуратно и тщательно.

Подбираем диаметр трубы для конкретных условий

Диаметр двухконтурной трубы должен соответствовать выходному патрубку котельного оборудования, внутренний кожух сэндвича ни в коем случае не должен быть меньше по размерам. Нельзя допускать сужения просвета трубопровода в месте сочленения, это может уменьшить тягу дымохода. Необходимый для конкретных условий диаметр трубы выбирается в зависимости от мощности котельного оборудования.

Устройство сэндвич трубы

Сечение трубы в восемь сантиметров используется для установок с мощностью менее трех с половиной киловатт. Трубы с диаметром от девяти с половиной сантиметров применяются для котлов мощностью не более 5,2 киловатта, при больших значениях этого параметра потребуются трубы сечением в одиннадцать сантиметров. В процессе устройства дымохода нельзя допускать его сужения, а вот расширять его вполне возможно.

Монтаж сэндвич трубы своими руками

Чтобы правильно смонтировать сэндвичные трубы, нужно соблюдать следующие далее рекомендации. Перед монтажом сэндвич дымохода своими руками необходимо рассчитать нужное количество всех элементов с учетом особенностей конструкции дома. Следует внимательно изучить техническую документацию на изделие и ознакомиться с рекомендациями по технике безопасности при монтаже дымоходной трубы через стену или перекрытие потолка.

Следует сделать все необходимое для предотвращения возможности возгорания близлежащих к нему деталей строительной конструкции во время эксплуатации дымохода. Сэндвичные трубы при монтаже дымохода через стену надежно укрепляются.

Обустройство сэндвич дымохода внутри здания

Существует два варианта размещения: внутренняя установка с проводкой через чердачное перекрытие и установка трубы сэндвич с выходом через стену и закреплением на ней снаружи. При внутреннем размещении трубопровод не испытывает отрицательного воздействия внешней среды, на внутренней поверхности образование конденсата сведено к минимуму. Для выполнения работы понадобятся следующие инструменты:

• перфоратор для проделывания отверстий в перекрытиях;
• электрическая дрель для крепления кронштейнов;
• шлицевая и крестовая отвертки;
• строительный уровень и лестница.

Сборка элементов системы

Сборка элементов дымоходной системы всегда начинается с нижней части с последующим продвижением наверх. Непосредственно к источнику тепловой энергии сэндвич дымоход подключать нельзя. Сначала на выходной патрубок печи или котла надевается переходник, обмазанный герметиком, стойким к воздействию высокой температуры, затем устанавливается основная труба. Место соединения надежно фиксируется металлическим хомутом.

Варианты монтажа сэндвич труб

Существует два способа монтировать сэндвичные трубы: «по дыму» или «по конденсату». В первом случае каждая предыдущая труба вставляется внутрь следующей за ней. Так собирается и внутренняя, и наружная части. Данный вариант соединения дымохода применяется для печей с повышенной температурой горения топлива.

По конденсату трубы соединяются следующим образом: внутренняя труба собирается последовательной вставкой верхнего отрезка в нижний, внешняя – противоположным образом, то есть вставкой предыдущего элемента в последующий. При таком монтаже дымохода образовавшийся конденсат стекает по внешнему кожуху в дренаж, и поэтому его применяют в перечисленных случаях:

• при низкой температуре продуктов сгорания;
• в случае расположении дымохода снаружи здания;
• в системах длительного или тлеющего горения.

В ситуации, когда дымоход уходит вертикально вверх, как в банной печи, на ее выходе устанавливают трубу с одной стенкой и уже к ней подключают сэндвич трубу. Если последнюю подключить напрямую к печи, слой изоляционного материала между стенками двух труб спечется и перестанет выполнять свои функции. В том случае, когда требуется получить большее количество тепла за счет дымохода, длина одинарной трубы увеличивается, и на ней можно разместить бак для подогрева воды. При этом близлежащие стены помещения защищаются от воздействия высокой температуры экраном.

Как правильно вывести сэндвич трубу через потолок и стену

Вывести и закрепить трубы возможно с помощью короба, внутри которого проделано отверстие. Высота короба должна быть приблизительно на семь сантиметров больше толщины перекрытия для предотвращения его возгорания. Надо учитывать то, что, несмотря на наличие термоизоляционной прокладки, внешняя поверхность дымохода может прогреваться до достаточно высоких температур. Вследствие этого обязательно выполнение дополнительной изоляции в местах соприкосновения с горючими материалами, такими, как дерево, пластик и так далее.

Варианты обустройства выхода дымохода через потолок

Внутри короба находится специальный отрезок трубы, который не должен иметь стыков, и это -важное требование при выполнении монтажа. Предварительно следует выполнить маркером точную разметку. После установки отрезка трубы в коробе стыки нужно тщательно изолировать.

Размер вырезаемого для прохода трубы отверстия должен превышать ее сечение не менее, чем на двести пятьдесят миллиметров. В образовавшийся промежуток закладывается жаропрочный материал, наиболее часто — базальтовая вата. Кроме обеспечения термоизоляции, это предотвращает повреждение дымохода при усадке элементов строительной конструкции, их деформации под воздействием температуры или влажности.

Монтаж сэндвич дымохода через стену

Для прокладки дымохода через перекрытия, изготовленные из подверженных горению материалов, применяются специальные узлы с воздушным зазором между наружной частью и внутренней поверхностью. В случае, когда материал не воспламеняется, вместо проходного элемента возможно установить разгрузочную платформу, которая будет служить дополнительной опорой конструкции.

Как сделать проход дымоходной системы сквозь кровлю

Для вывода дымоходной системы через кровлю следует правильно обустроить отверстие. Со стороны чердака вокруг трубы нужно закрепить лист металла или специально подготовленную панель с отверстием. Укрепляется конструкция брусками или обрешеткой.

Дымоход при прохождении через крышу нарушает ее герметичность. Для предотвращения возникновения протечек применяют изоляционный материал, который носит название кровельной проходки. Последняя представляет из себя пирамидку, которая состоит из нескольких ступеней, размещенных на гибком фланце круглой или квадратной формы. Материалом подобного изделия служит силикон или атмосферостойкие типы резины.

Монтаж сэндвич трубы через кровлю

Благодаря эластичности этих материалов проходка надежно согласуется с кровлей любого типа и сопротивляется агрессивному воздействию внешней среды. Подбирается эта деталь в зависимости от диаметра трубы и угла уклона крыши. Отличными эксплуатационными свойствами обладает проходка, изготовленная из металла, но ее установка возможна только на крышу без рельефного рисунка или мягкую кровлю. При этом для качественной герметизации нужно точно подобрать соответствие расположения фланца уклону покрытия.

Крепление дымохода к стене

При наружном размещении через каждые два метра сборки дымоход монтируется к стене надежными кронштейнами. Если в монтажной схеме предусматриваются тройники или сгоны, то каждый такой элемент тоже монтируется к стене. Это дает возможность поддерживать дымоход в вертикальном положении, снизить нагрузку на стыковые соединения и сделать невозможным разрушение в результате шквальных порывов ветра.

Установка сэндвич дымохода снаружи здания

Стыковые соединения стягиваются металлическими хомутами. Отводы и тройники фиксируются при помощи индивидуальных кронштейнов. Между стеной и дымоходом обязательно оставляется промежуток, который называется отступком, величина его зависит от степени горючести материалов отделки, толщины перегородки котельного оборудования и так далее.

Варианты крепежа дымохода на стене

Рекомендуется приобретать крепежные элементы с запасом около тридцати процентов, так как в этом случае не придется отвлекаться от работы при повреждении деталей. Нужно четко следовать инструкции по сборке изделия и использовать крепежные элементы только высокого качества. Кронштейны должны соответствовать строительному материалу, из которого изготовлена стена.

Как монтировать дымоход на крыше

При установке дымохода на крыше необходимо принимать во внимание его вид и размещение зданий по соседству. Труба не должна находиться в такой зоне, где произойдет ухудшение естественной тяги. Высота расположения над кровлей определяется расстоянием между трубой и коньком, над которым она должна возвышаться не меньше, чем на пятьдесят сантиметров. Над плоской крышей возвышение должно составлять не менее ста двадцати сантиметров, если кровля комбинированная – не менее двухсот сантиметров.

В том случае, когда конек находится от трубы на расстоянии от полутора до трех метров, дымоход допускается располагать на общем уровне с ним. При большей удаленности от конька проводится горизонтальная линия с углом снижения десять градусов, и дымоход размещается не ниже этой черты. При несоблюдении этих правил возможно образование обратной тяги в системе удаления продуктов сгорания топлива.

Высота установки трубы на крыше

В трубе дымохода устанавливается уловитель искр в том случае, если при изготовлении кровли использовались горючие материалы. Над выходным отверстием монтируется конусообразный оголовок. Для защиты от атмосферных воздействий применяются грибки или дефлекторы.

Эксплуатация системы и решение проблем плохой тяги

Длительная эксплуатация дымохода приводит к образованию на его внутренних стенках сажевого налета. При его утолщении происходит уменьшение внутреннего сечения трубы, вследствие этого снижается ее проходимость, и уменьшается тяга. Проблема плохой тяги решается регулярной чисткой дымохода. О том, как это делать, читайте в статье «Как почистить своими руками печную трубу, дымоход и печь от сажи народными средствами».

Для этого предусматривается дверца в нижней части конструкции или устанавливается специальный стакан, которые открывают доступ к внутренним частям сэндвич трубы. Уменьшить образование сажевого налета или даже предотвратить его появление поможет соблюдение следующих несложных правил:

• Хвойные породы древесины следует использовать в качестве топлива как можно реже. При сгорании они выделяют трудно удаляемые с внутренней поверхности трубы смолы, к которым прилипает сажа.
• Дрова перед отправкой в топку нужно хорошенько просушить. При сжигании сырых дров образуется очень много дыма, копоти и сажи.
• Полиэтиленовые пакеты и бытовой мусор использовать в качестве топлива нельзя ни в коем случае. При их сгорании выделяется множество химически агрессивных компонентов.
• Для профилактики образования сажи в дымоходе завершать сжигание топлива надо осиновыми дровами. Они дают высокое пламя и температуру, которые выжигают образовавшуюся в трубе сажу.

Ревизия и шибер для организации чистки сэндвич дымохода

Период эксплуатации сэндвич дымохода составляет около пятнадцати лет и выше. Для его безотказной работы в течение длительного времени нужно соблюдать простейшие правила. Нельзя заменять источник тепловой энергии таким образом, чтобы температура продуктов сгорания топлива превышала расчетные значения именно для этого типа дымохода.

Следует регулярно отслеживать состояние теплоизоляторов во всех проемах и заменять их по мере необходимости. Нужно контролировать процесс образования и слива сконденсированной влаги. При удалении сажи не следует применять механический способ очистки.

Уважаемый читатель! Ваши замечания, предложения или отзыв послужат наградой автору материала. Спасибо за внимание!

Следующий видеоролик тщательно подобран и обязательно поможет восприятию изложенного.

Поделитесь с друьями!

как сделать и собрать дымоход своими руками

Утепленный изнутри двухконтурный дымоход – это принципиально новая концепция. Причем по пожаробезопасности современный дымоход из сэндвич-трубы не уступает кирпичному аналогу, а вот в плане стойкости к конденсату даже превышает эти свойства. Если вы хотите приобрести или сделать своими руками по-настоящему качественное изделие такого типа, тогда наша статья станет для вас настоящей находкой!

Сэндвич-труба отличается от обычной тем, что состоит из внутренней и наружной стальной частей, между которыми находится теплоизолирующий материал. Т.е. есть внешние оболочки, и есть начинка. Давайте теперь перечислим основные плюсы такой конструкции:

• отличная стабильная тяга;
• практически отсутствует конденсат;
• поддержание длительного нагрева внутренней части трубы, а наружной оболочки – в относительно терпимой температуре;
• простота сборки и установки.

И многое другое, что становится заметным уже в процессе эксплуатации. Поверьте, свою популярность такая конструкция набирает неспроста!

Для начала давайте разберемся, что именно представляет собой современный сэндвич-дымоход:

Теперь давайте поговорим о законах физики.  Современные стальные трубы по типу сэндвича рассчитаны на то, что нержавеющая сталь способна выдержать 600 градусов Цельсия без изменения структуры металла. Но такая труба в течение уже только четырех-пяти часов хорошей топки способна произвести  передачу тепла на ограждающие конструкции.

Кроме того, достаточно много сегодня сэндвич-дымоходов продают с параметром «до 400 градусов Цельсия», и уже выше этого порога нержавеющая сталь быстро теряет свои свойства: горит, прогорает и воспламеняет утепление. Причем, чем сам слой теплоизоляции толще, тем это происходит быстрее.

Но все это вовсе не значит, что стоит отказаться от сэндвич-дымохода! В сравнении, одноконтурная стальная труба излучает самое жесткое тепло и способна нагреть горючие конструкции до их возгорания даже на расстоянии 40 сантиметров.

Тогда в чем выход? Делать все изначально качественно! И вот такой, казалось бы, самодельный дымоход на практике нередко оказывается более надежным и безопасным, чем его магазинные аналоги.

Вот замечательный видео мастер-класс, который наглядно показывает, что сделать исправный и надежный дымоход из сэндвич-трубы абсолютно реально самостоятельно, из обычных материалов, которые продаются в любом строительном супермаркете:

Иногда конструкция дымохода предполагает наличие сложных переходов и частей, например, если помещение необычной геометрии или же установка прямой вертикальной трубы пожаронебезопасна:

Устройство такого дымохода относительно простое:

• Внутренняя труба призвана пропускать через себя дым, образующий агрессивную среду. Вот почему для обустройства такого дымохода разрешено применять только сталь определенных марок: AISI 304, 321, 316 или 409.
• А вот труба большего размера (по-другому называемая наружным кожухом) должна выдерживать осадки и другие атмосферные явления. Она защищает утеплитель и обеспечивает ему герметичное сухое состояние. Изготавливают ее из оцинкованной, нержавеющей стали или меди. К слову труба, из нержавеющей стали нередко тонирована кварцевым порошком в цвет по каталогу RAL.

Если вы впервые изготавливаете такую сложную конструкцию, как дымоход, старайтесь избегать вообще колен и углов – их не приветствуют даже профессионалы.

Как приобрести качественные сэндвич-модули?

У вас действи

90000 Planning Your Chimney Pipe & Stove Pipe Installation 90001 90002 The following recommendations are intended as a general guideline to assist in the layout and selection of the chimney components needed for your installation. Always read and follow Installation Instructions before installing your chimney system. Follow local building codes and have your chimney inspected. 90003 90002 Download our Chimney Pipe Installation Guide or build your chimney pipe using our Automated Chimney Pipe Builder 90003 90006 To Get Started 90007 90002 90009 Determine the (inner) diameter of your Chimney.90010 This is usually the same size as the flue collar on your appliance. (See Figure 1). Follow manufacturer recommendations whenever applicable. Never use a chimney that is smaller in diameter than the flue size of the appliance it is being connected to. An improperly sized chimney results in poor draft and excessive creosote formation. 90003 90006 Chimney Planning Step 1 90007 90002 90009 Select the type of installation by determining where your chimney will run.90010 Installations will vary. Determine if the installation is a through-the-roof or through-the-wall installation. Do you have a second story, or a cathedral ceiling? A through the wall installation requires additional components (Wall Thimble, Tee w / Cap, Tee Support, and Wall Straps). Install the chimney pipe in the interior of the structure whenever possible. A cold exterior chimney will produce less draft and will generate more creosote. If at all possible, avoid offsets that restrict the natural draft.A straight vertical installation is more efficient. If an offset is required to avoid rafters or other obstructions, please note that elbows greater than 30 degrees are not allowed in the United States, and a maximum of two offsets in a single installation are permitted. At least one elbow strap is required for each offset. 90003 90018 90019 90020 90021 90019 90020 90024 90019 90020 90027 90019 90020 90006 Chimney Planning Step 2 90007 90002 90009 Determine the number of Chimney Pipe lengths required 90010.The chimney must extend at least 3 feet above the highest point where it passes through the roof, and be at least 2 foot higher than any part of the building within a horizontal distance of 10 feet (Figure 2). The termination cap is installed above this point. If the chimney pipe extends more than 5 feet above the roof, an extended roof bracket must be installed to provide stability against wind and snow. When calculating the installed length of your chimney you must subtract for each joint, (see chart below) and include the height requirements as described.This allows for the overlap of tight fitting joints. Download our Chimney Pipe Installation Guide now. 90003 90002 Minimum chimney height, at sea level, of a straight or vertical chimney is 10 feet to 15 feet above the appliance outlet. Higher elevations, or the use of an elbow or a tee, will require approximately 30% to 60% more height to provide for an adequate draft. 90003 90038 .90000 Chimney Pipe and Stove Pipe FAQs 90001 90002 90003 90004 90005 I want to install my own chimney pipe but do not know where to start. 90006 90007 The easiest way to start is to go to our Chimney Pipe Installation Planning Guide. We’ll answer several questions here though. 90008 90009 90010 Start first by determining what type of chimney your appliance requires. This information is in the instruction manual of your appliance and there are several types of chimney.For instance; Class A chimney is for wood, coal, and most fuels however, it may not be required for your gas appliance or pellet appliance. Pellet vent is for pellet burning appliances or corn burners. B-Vent is for certain gas appliances but not all. Direct-vent chimney is for a direct-vent gas appliance. Bottom Line — Read your instruction manual to see what type of chimney is required for your appliance. 90011 90010 Next, determine the size of the chimney pipe needed. Never go smaller than what is required or you risk having smoke or gasses backing up or a poor draft in other words.90011 90010 There are different requirements for the US or Canada in some cases which we point out based on the type of chimney. 90011 90010 90007 Once you determine the above 4 requirements you will need to choose a manufacturer and brand of chimney (many manufacturers offer several brands within a type). Although several brands are available, we recommend Dura-Vent DuraTech for most new installations due to their reputation, warranty, product offering, availability, and price. Visit our Class-A Chimney Pipe section for further recommendations.90008 90011 90010 90007 Also see our article on Proper Venting. 90008 90011 90024 90004 90005 Should I install my chimney vertically or horizontally through the wall and then up? 90006 90007 A: A Thru-The Wall installation is more likely to have drafting issues because of running cooler and because of elbows etc. Also, they are more challenging to clean and more expensive to install. Always run straight up if you can. 90008 90004 90005 Which manufacturer or type should I go with? 90006 90007 We recommend Dura-Vent chimney pipe for new installations.Their reputation, warranty, product offering, availability, and price are hard to beat. Also see our article Which Chimney Pipe is Best For Me? 90008 90004 90005 Within the Dura-Vent product line, which brand should I choose? 90006 90007 A: The most popular Class A Chimney Pipe we sell by far is the DuraTech brand by Dura-Vent. DuraTech is a double-wall chimney system which has a larger selection of components than most others, it is priced well, preferred by professional installers, and is widely available.90008 90004 90005 What if I get stuck and can not figure it all out after I buy the chimney? Can I return it? 90006 90007 If you get stuck please give us a call. We have several trained customer service representatives that are eager to help you. If you decide to return all or part of your purchase … no problem. Our philosophy is to help people get what they want or need or to take it back if it is not working out. There are no re-stocking fees but you’ll be responsible for shipping costs. We’re here to help you succeed in your chimney pipe installation.90008 90004 90005 How do I figure out my roof pitch so I know what chimney pipe flashing to buy? 90006 90007 See our article How Do I Measure Roof Pitch. 90008 90004 90005 I ‘we have seen people use black pipe for the entire wood stove chimney installation. I’d like to save money but is this safe? 90006 90007 Absolutely not! Black pipe is not chimney pipe and should only be used up to the point of penetrating the ceiling or wall. From that point on class A chimney pipe is required.Black single wall stove pipe has a clearance to combustibles of 18 «(double-wall black pipe has a clearance of 6») whereas class A chimney pipe is generally 2 «. Black pipe used outside will run way cooler flue temperatures than class A chimney and will potentially build up creosote quite rapidly increasing the chance of a chimney fire. There a no safe way to use black stove pipe for the entire chimney system so ask yourself … Is saving some money worth me or my family’s life and home worth the risk ? 90008 90004 90005 I have a round metal class A chimney in my home already but the diameter is 6 «and the wood stove I am installing has an 8» flue.Can I use a reducer and use my 6 «chimney? 90006 90007 Typically you should never reduce the size of the chimney smaller than the outlet of the wood stove flue since doing so will usually cause smoking out the front or less than desirable draft up the chimney. However, with that said and assuming the chimney you have is in good condition, why not give it a try? I have seen installations with a chimney smaller than required that have a very strong draft that work just fine. Just buy a reducer and try it, if it smokes badly then you’ll need to replace the chimney with the proper size.90008 90004 90005 I have a chimney that is the proper size but my woodstove / fireplace smokes badly out the front. What can I do? 90006 90007 There are several things you need to check; 90008 90009 90010 Have you cleaned your chimney or had it checked for obstructions like a birds nest, excessive creosote build-up, etc? If not then get a powerful flashlight, pop the chimney cap off and take a look (or look up from the bottom of a fireplace). Clean your chimney if necessary. We carry a huge selection of chimney cleaning products in our Chimney Brush category, our Chimney Cleaning Accessories category, and our Chimney Maintenance category.90011 90010 If your wood stove or fireplace smokes out the front only at first but drafts fine after a fire is started then most likely the cause is due to a cold chimney that has what is called a downdraft where the outside air is coming down the chimney into the home. This is more common on an exterior chimney like many fireplace chimneys. There is not an easy cure for this situation but one solution would be to roll up a newspaper, light it, and hold it up inside the chimney to get the draft reversed then light your fire.Another option is to install a draft inducer in the chimney or on top of the chimney. A draft inducer is a fan that either pushes up the smoke or pulls it up and out. Draft inducers work very well and generally solve the problem but are somewhat expensive. Draft inducers are available in our Chimney Draft Inducers category. 90011 90010 If your wood stove or fireplace only smokes when the wind is blowing from a certain direction you can try a special cap called a Vac-U-Stack or a draft inducer which will generally solve the problem.For a smoking masonry fireplace a common problem is the chimney flue either too small in relation to the opening or the chimney is not high enough. A quick and easy test is to take a piece of aluminum foil, pull out enough to span the width of your fireplace, fold it to a 4 «high x however wide your fireplace is, and tape it up to the opening of your fireplace. In effect you have reduced the size of your fireplace opening. If this simple test works then go to our Smoke Guards category and buy a Smoke Guard for a permanent installation.90011 90010 In other cases your chimney just is not high enough. An easy and inexpensive way to test if that’s the case is to buy some inexpensive black pipe (for round chimneys) or get some furnace duct work made to size (for masonry chimney flues) and temporarily add this section to the top of your chimney. If the poor draft is cured using this method then either buy enough class A chimney pipe to extend the height (round chimneys) or for a masonry chimney contact a mason to extend it or buy a Flue Stretcher.90011 90024 90004 90005 I need more class A chimney pipe brand XYZ. Can I use any other brand of chimney pipe instead? 90006 90007 No. Every manufacturer of class A chimney pipe uses their own methods to secure the pipe together so one brand most likely will not connect together correctly with another brand of pipe and could be dangerous due to a poor fit as it could come apart or leak creosote, smoke , or gasses. 90008 90004 90005 Can I just run single wall black pipe all the way up? 90006 90007 No, you must transition to Class A chimney pipe at the ceiling or wall.90008 90004 90005 Can I run the Class A chimney pipe all the way to the stove? 90006 90007 You could but why would you want to? Black stove pipe radiates extra heat into the room and is considerably less expensive than class A chimney pipe. 90008 90004 90005 I have a free standing wood stove and need pipe, what do I need? 90006 90007 Go to our Chimney pipe Installation Planning Guide for additional information and help. 90008 90004 90005 Can I mix MetalBest chimney pipe with DuraTech or DuraPlus chimney pipe? 90006 90007 No, you can not intermingle different pipe manufactures.They have their own locking mechanisms and are brand specific. 90008 90004 90005 Do you have a special adapter to use DuraTech with MetalBest? 90006 90007 No, you can not intermingle different pipe manufactures. They have their own locking mechanisms and are brand specific. 90008 90004 90005 Q: I have a 7 «outlet on my stove. Should I run 7» or up it to 8 «? 90006 90007 7 «pipe will work fine but if you ever decide to put in an 8» appliance you would need to upgrade the pipe to 8 «. Same situation would apply if you were using a 6» appliance.Years ago most wood stoves were using an 8 «flue but over the last several years the manufacturers have made smaller more efficient wood stoves and most stoves these days use a 6» flue. 6 «and 8» chimney pipe are easier to find than 7 «and many times you’ll find more options in the 6» and 8 «sizes. 90008 90004 90005 What’s the difference between DuraTech and DuraPlus chimney pipe? 90006 90007 DuraPlus is a triple-wall chimney system with a layer of insulation between the innermost wall and the middle wall whereas DuraTech is a double-wall chimney system with a layer if insulation between the two metal walls.Both DuraTech and DuraPlus are tested to the same temperature, 2100 degrees and clearance to combustibles on both brands is 2 «. DuraTech is the most popular choice in most cases and is our top selling brand of pipe. DuraTech has a wider selection of pipe lengths and finishes, has a wider selection of fittings and components, is the most popular choice among professional installers, and is widely carried across the USA. DuraPlus is the only choice for mobile home installations and DuraPlus HTC is the only choice for Canadian wood stove installations.90008 90004 90005 Can I mix DuraTech with DuraPlus, or DuraBlack with DVL, or DuraTech with Selkirk, etc? 90006 90007 NO, NO, NO! They will not fit well together or at all and will pose a safety issue. Stick with one brand of chimney pipe and one brand of stove pipe. 90008 90004 90005 What is the difference between stove pipe and chimney pipe? 90006 90007 Many confuse the terms. Stove pipe is usually painted black and is used in the interior on the home until you transition through a wall or ceiling then class A chimney pipe is used thereon.Stove pipe, black pipe, single wall pipe all refer to the same thing. Chimney pipe, class A pipe, triple-wall pipe, insulated pipe all refer to class A chimney pipe. Double-wall pipe could be associated with either double-wall black pipe like DVL or double-wall chimney pipe like DuraTech. 90008 90004 90005 What is the offset and rise for both black pipe and chimney pipe. 90006 90007 We have this information available in the installation instructions for each brand of pipe. Additionally you can find the DuraVent Pipe Offsets here.90008 90004 90005 How high do I need to run my class A chimney pipe? 90006 90007 The National Fire Protection Association Standard # 211 states: «Chimneys shall extend at least three feet above the highest point where it passes through the roof of a building, and at least two feet higher than any portion of a building within ten feet. » 90008 90004 90005 Why should I buy from NorthlineExpress.com? 90006 90007 We’re experts when it comes to chimney installation and we have a full staff eager to help you solve your chimney system challenges.We have a large stock of chimney products from pipe to brushes to cleaners and everything imaginable for your fireplace, wood stove and pellet stove. Unlike many internet retailers who carry little or no inventory, we have a 23,000 sq. ft. warehouse stocked with product. The big advantage there is we can generally process your order faster, provide better tracking information about your order and we understand the products since we see, feel, and handle them. NorthlineExpress has an A rating with the BBB and we have a policy to keep the customer happy even if we lose money, it just makes life easier.When you call our company you’ll talk to an individual who is always looking out for your best interest. Also see Why Buy From NorthlineExpress.com and our Welcome pages. 90008 90004 90005 Can I use DuraTech chimney in Canada? 90006 90007 For wood stoves and most fireplaces being installed in Canada DuraPlus HTC is the only choice from Dura-Vent. The reason is that the HTC pipe has 2 «thick insulation to pass the 2 hours burn / temp test required in Canada. The DuraTech has a 1» blanket of insulation and will not pass the Canadian test but passes the USA test.DuraTech’s only listing for use with a wood burning appliance in Canada are a few Zero Clearance fireplaces listed for use in Canada. Other than that, DuraTech is only listed for oil and gas in Canada. Always read your appliance instruction manual for proper chimney recommendations. DuraPlus HTC is listed for Canada use to ULC S629 (143-P-03-2). 90008 90004 90005 How do I maintain my fireplace, wood stove, or pellet stove chimney? 90006 90007 It is not difficult but there are various types of chimneys from masonry fireplaces, pre-fabricated chimney pipe, pellet vent pipe and more.We answer all those questions in the following articles; 90008 90150 90004 90005 Should I buy single wall or double wall stove pipe? 90006 90007 It depends on your clearance to combustibles. Single wall black stove pipe needs to be at least 18 «from combustibles, will radiate more heat than double wall black stove pipe (desirable in most cases), costs way less, and can be cut to length if needed. Double wall black stove pipe has a 6 «from combustibles and is not very hot to the touch.Clearances to combustibles can also be reduced with various items such as Pipe Heat Shields. Mobile home installations require double wall black stove pipe for added safety. 90008 90004 90005 Can I go through my wall with single wall or double wall black stove pipe? 90006 90007 No, you must use factory built class A chimney pipe such as DuraTech or DuraPlus once you transition through a wall or ceiling. 90008 90004 90005 What is the biggest difference between brands of single-wall black stove pipe? 90006 90007 Black stove pipe is available from NorthlineExpress in 3 brands of single wall and at least two brands of double wall pipe.Single wall black stove pipe is offered in three grades; Snap-Lock, DuraBlack, and HeatFab. Snap-Lock pipe is the least expensive but not necessarily the best choice. It snaps together hence its name, has thinner gauge metal than DuraBlack and does not fit together as nicely as other brands of black stove pipe. DuraBlack is our most popular choice of black stove pipe as it is less expensive than HeatFab, is 24 gauge thick, fits together nicely with Dura-Vent chimney systems, and has a lot of fittings available.HeatFab is the thickest black pipe at 22 gauge, has many fittings, fits well together and is a good choice for those looking for the highest quality and longest lasting stove pipe. 90008 90004 90005 Should I screw the sections of single-wall black pipe together? 90006 90007 Yes. Screwing sections of black stove pipe together adds an extra margin of safety and is generally required by most building codes. Double wall black stove pipe like DVL can be screwed together but do not penetrate the inner wall.We sell specialBlack Stove Pipe Screws for that purpose. 90008 90004 90005 Does the crimped end of my black stove pipe go up or down? 90006 90007 The crimped end of the stove pipe goes down. Many people think the crimped end goes up to keep the smoke in the pipe but that is incorrect. First of all the smoke is not just going up on its own, it is being drawn up the chimney by the natural draft. Secondly the crimped end must go down so that if condensation or creosote runs down the stove pipe it will remain inside the pipe or wood stove / fireplace.90008 90004 90005 Q: I have an oval opening on my wood stove. Do you sell oval to round adapters? 90006 90007 Yes, we do. However they are sometimes very hard to match up. You may need to find a sheet metal shop and have a custom one made up. Search our Stove Pipe section to see if we have a size available that matches your stove. 90008 90181 90004 90005 I want to install my own pellet vent chimney system but do not know where to start. 90006 90007 See our section on How to Install Pellet Vent Pro Chimney Systems and Pellet Vent Pro Installation Instructions.90008 90009 90010 90007 Start first by determining what size of chimney your pellet stove requires, pellet vent pipe is available in 3 «and 4» diameters. This information is in the instruction manual of your pellet stove. Never go smaller than what is required or you risk having smoke or gasses backing up or a poor draft in other words. 90008 90011 90010 90007 Determine the layout or installation type that is applicable for your home. For pellet vent the most popular installation is thru-the-wall terminating outside versus a straight up installation and is relatively inexpensive.90008 90011 90010 90007 Once you determine the above requirements you will need to choose a manufacturer and brand of chimney (many manufacturers offer several brands within a type). 90008 90011 90024 90004 90005 Q: Which manufacturer or brand should I go with? 90006 90007 There are several brands available, we recommend Dura-Vent PelletVent Pro for new installations due to their reputation, warranty, product offering, availability, and price. Our Website displays «customers choice» manufacturers & brands for Pellet Vent Pipe.90008 90004 90005 Q: What is the difference between PelletVent and PelletVent Pro? 90006 90007 Dura-Vent PelletVent is less expensive than PelletVent Pro, however, we recommend Dura-Vent PelletVent Pro. PelletVent Pro is available in galvalume or black (galvalume only in PelletVent), has a wider selection of components available and has a 1 «clearance to combustibles versus 3» clearance on PelletVent and many other brands of pellet vent pipe. PelletVent Pro is preferred by professional installers and is our top selling pellet vent pipe.Additional information is available in our Pellet Vent Pipe section. 90008 90004 90005 Q: Can I reduce a 4 «pellet stove to a 3» pellet vent pipe? 90006 90007 No. If you already have a 3 «pellet vent pipe system installed and you now have a 4» pellet vent stove you will need to replace the 3 «pipe with 4» pellet vent pipe otherwise the pellet stove will most likely not draft properly. You can always increase a 3 «pellet stove for use with a 4» system but you should never reduce the size.Optimum performance usually is achieved when the pellet vent diameter is the same as the appliance. It is possible to have too much draft, however it is generally not an issue. Too little of a draft is a much bigger problem since the stove may not burn properly or gasses can back up in the home. For a 3 «to 4» pellet vent increaser use item 5SP-3PVP-X4AD or 5SP-3PVP-X4ADB. 90008 90004 90005 Q: Is there a fresh air intake available for my pellet vent stove? 90006 90007 Yes. See item code 5SP-3PVP-AIK for Dura-Vent PelletVent Pro systems and can usually be installed with other pellet vent pipe as well.90008.90000 All You Need To Know (Experts) 90001 90002 Trying to figure out what kind of piping you need to install your fireplace, stove, or any other hearth appliance can be an intimidating task. In an effort to simplify things for you, we will look at several aspects of the most common types of chimney pipe and explain their uses and applications. 90003 90004 90005 90006 90007 90008 90002 What we have here is a guide to help you, the consumer, become a bit more familiar with chimney pipe.First and foremost, in any installation, you’ll want to begin by consulting the owner’s manual for your hearth appliance. Different fireplaces and stoves have varying venting requirements. These requirements involve more than just the kind of pipe you need; it also includes specific information regarding clearances and offsets that must be followed for safe and proper installation. If anything in your manual is unclear or confusing, contact the manufacturer of your appliance directly for clarification.90003 90002 But, if you need further assistance or simply can not get a hold of your manufacturer, feel free to give us a call at 1-800-203-1642 or email us at [email protected]. Our NFI certified specialists will be happy to assist you in any way that they can. 90003 90013 What is Class A Chimney Pipe? 90014 90002 Class A chimney pipe has many names, often referred to as double-wall chimney pipe, triple-wall chimney pipe, all-fuel pipe, or insulated chimney pipe. Class A pipe is used to vent high-temperature exhaust released from wood, coal, and oil-burning appliances such as fireplaces, stoves, boilers, and furnaces.90003 90002 Not every venting system requires a Class A pipe, but it is absolutely necessary for use with all wood-burning fireplaces and stoves. 90003 90004 90005 90021 90007 90008 90002 Class A chimney pipe is UL-listed, which permits its use with a range of different vent pipe manufactured by other fabricators and an even wider variety of fireplaces, stoves, inserts, and furnaces. However, it is important to note that you should never mix-and-match different brands of Class A chimney pipe within one chimney system unless specifically allowed by the manufacturer.The different brands of pipe are all distinctly engineered and must be used as a complete system from beginning to end. 90003 90002 If you are looking to extend or redesign your current chimney system, you need to know the make and model of your existing Class A pipe and purchase the same type, if possible. Unfortunately, if your existing make and model of pipe is a discontinued or obsolete brand, you will likely need to rebuild your chimney system from scratch. Building codes prohibit the use of any adapters not approved by the manufacturer.These adapters are very rare and are usually only offered by a manufacturer to link a very similar discontinued piping system to a currently offered system. 90003 90002 There are two types of Class A chimney pipe: 90003 90030 90031 90032 Solid-packed chimney 90033 — These pipes have smaller inner diameters (usually ranging from 5 inches to 8 inches) that have some insulation, either double-wall (like Simpson DuraVent DuraTech pipe) or triple-wall (like Simpson DuraVent DuraPlus pipe ).These pipes contain fiberglass or ceramic insulation to stay cooler on the outside and must maintain a 2-inch clearance to combustibles. 90034 90035 90031 90032 Air-cooled chimney 90033 — These pipes have larger inner diameters (usually ranging from 8 inches to 24 inches) with no insulation. An example of this kind of Class A pipe is the IHP chimney pipe that is required for use with Superior and Astria manufactured fireplaces. As the name implies, these pipes rely on the air circulating within them to keep the outer wall cooler and must also maintain a 1 or 2-inch clearance to combustibles.90034 90040 90004 90005 90043 90007 90008 90002 When using Class A chimney pipe, it is important to plan or route the vent run wisely to minimize costs and maximize your savings. Class A pipe is usually manufactured with either a stainless steel or galvanized (or galvalume) outer wall. When running Class A pipe within a masonry chimney, a chase, an attic, or any enclosure inside the home, it is economically wise to use galvanized pipe. It is highly recommended, if possible, to install your chimney in the interior of your home.Having your chimney system exposed to the outdoors brings with it the risk of a «cold hearth syndrome,» which can hinder drafting and produce more creosote. 90003 90002 The need for stainless steel only arises when your pipe will be exposed to the elements. If the galvanized pipe is exposed, it is susceptible to eventual rust and corrosion. This is especially true in coastal areas. If you must use galvanized pipe outside, we urge you to paint your pipe with a high temperature, rust-resistant paint.Just remember, galvanized piping must be cleaned and prepped prior to painting to remove any residual machine oil or dust from the manufacturing process. 90003 90013 What is Direct Vent Pipe? 90014 90002 Direct-vent pipe is made specifically for a direct vent gas appliance. The term «direct-vent» refers to an appliance that uses only outside air for combustion and vents all exhaust directly back outside. The appliance itself is sealed off from the room by a glass door that should never be opened while the unit is in use.90003 90002 Direct-vent units are among the most popular with consumers because of their efficiency and ease of installation compared to traditional wood-burning applications. 90003 90004 90005 90058 90007 90008 90002 There are two types of direct vent piping systems: 90003 90030 90031 90032 Coaxial pipe 90033 — Consisting of a pipe-within-a-pipe configuration, a coaxial system utilizes a smaller inner pipe that is fixed inside a larger outer pipe. The inner pipe, separated from the outer pipe by spacers, vents and removes all combustion by-products and exhaust out of the appliance and out of the home.The space between the two pipes brings in fresh air from outside into the appliance for combustion. Coaxial pipe may be rigid or flexible. 90034 90035 90031 90032 Colinear pipe 90033 — This is a system with two separate pipes, one for combustion air and the other for exhaust. These kinds of pipes are usually flexible and typically use existing masonry structures to run the piping. 90034 90040 90002 Clearances for direct vent pipe may vary, and these clearances will be specified by the manufacturer of your direct-vent appliance.The general rule-of-thumb, however, is a 1-inch clearance all the way around for vertical vent runs. And if running the pipe horizontally, it must maintain a 3-inch clearance for the top half of the pipe and a 1-inch clearance for the bottom half of the pipe. 90003 90002 Direct vent chimney systems are specialized. Every component, including pipe, elbows, firestops, roof supports, termination caps, and etc. is specifically made for venting a direct-vent appliance. You will never convert direct vent pipe to Class A chimney pipe, and you will never convert a stove pipe to a direct vent pipe.In some circumstances, it is possible to utilize specialized adaptors to convert Class A chimney pipe into a direct vent system. 90003 90002 Unlike stove pipe, the use of roof supports and thimbles with direct vent systems do not serve as a conversion point to attach Class A chimney pipe. These components are only used to pass direct vent pipe safely through a ceiling or a wall. The owner’s manual of every direct vent fireplace, stove, or insert will specify which brands of direct vent pipe are approved for use with that unit.90003 90004 90005 90082 90007 90008 90002 A unique and convenient aspect of direct vent chimney systems is the ability to vent and terminate in various ways. A direct vent system can be terminated either horizontally or vertically, and in some cases, it may only take a few inches of pipe directly out the back of a direct vent appliance to the outside of your home. Be sure to follow your manufacturer’s guidelines for maximum horizontal run, vertical rise, etc. when designing your direct vent chimney system.The specifications for venting for each appliance will be spelled out in your owner’s manual. 90003 90002 Direct vent units may be referred to as «top vent,» «rear vent,» or «slant-back.» These titles refer to the position of the flue collar on the appliance. «Top vent» and «rear vent» are self-explanatory, and «slant-back» refers to an appliance with a flue collar coming out of the unit at a 45-degree angle, with easy adaptability for vertical or horizontal venting with the use of a 45-degree elbow.90003 90002 Many direct vent appliance manufacturers will offer specific horizontal or vertical venting kits for particular units. When looking into purchasing these kits, be sure to find out how much pipe you would be getting and if that would be enough to complete your system. 90003 90013 What is Stove Pipe? 90014 90002 Stove pipe, also called a chimney connector, is not the same as a Class A chimney pipe, although these two are often confused with each other. Stove pipe is used for venting wood burning stoves and is only for use inside the home, or more specifically, inside the room where the stove is installed.Once the venting reaches the wall or ceiling, it must be converted to Class A chimney pipe. Depending on which kind of stove pipe you use — single-wall or double-wall — you must also account for proper clearances from combustibles. For example, a single wall stove pipe requires 18 inches of clearance from ceilings or walls. Double wall stove pipe, on the other hand, requires only 8 inches of clearance from the ceiling and 6 inches from a wall. Once these clearances are met, you must convert your stove pipe to Class A chimney pipe for proper venting of your stove.90003 90004 90005 90097 90007 90008 90002 Many stove owners from years past may be surprised to know that stove pipe is never permitted to go through a ceiling or a wall, no matter how much clearance you can create. Therefore, it is never safe to use only stove pipe for venting. This is simply a matter of the way these pipes are engineered. 90003 90002 If used outside, stove pipe will be unable to maintain high flue temperatures, causing potential creosote buildup and increased risk of a chimney fire.Class A chimney pipe requires only two inches of clearance to combustibles because it is made to handle the highest temperatures for exhaust. This is why you must convert from stove pipe to class A chimney pipe when venting your wood burning stove. 90003 90104 How To Install Stove Pipe Into Chimney 90105 90002 There are a couple of different ways to make the conversion from a wood stove pipe to a chimney pipe for proper venting. These include through-the-ceiling or through-the-wall venting methods.Each installation calls for different components, depending on the transition point between the stove pipe and Class A chimney pipe. 90003 90004 90005 90110 90007 90008 90002 90032 Through-the-ceiling 90033 — For venting systems that run vertically through a ceiling, you must have a ceiling support box or round ceiling support piece to use as your transition point from the stove pipe to the Class A chimney pipe. The stove pipe will connect to the bottom, and the Class A chimney pipe will attach to the other side, either running through the ceiling support box itself or an attic insulation shield (in the case of round ceiling support).From here, chimney pipe will pass through a pitched roof by use of roof flashing, or it can be built into a framed wooden chase, which must be topped off with a fabricated chase top flashing. 90003 90004 90005 90119 90007 90008 90002 90032 Through-the-wall 90033 — For venting systems that run horizontally through a wall, you must have a thimble. A thimble is designed to allow Class A chimney pipe to pass through the wall, run into the room where your appliance is installed, and then connect to the stove pipe.Depending on what kind of stove pipe you use, the Class A chimney pipe must come into the room six inches (for connecting to double-wall stove pipe) or 18 inches (for connecting to single-wall stove pipe). 90003 90004 90005 90128 90007 90008 90002 Most wood burning stoves are top-vent models, meaning the flue collar will be on top of the unit. For any horizontal, through-the-wall venting system, you must have at least 12 inches of vertical rise from the top of the stove (not including the flue collar itself or any elbows) before connecting a 90-degree elbow piece to turn toward the wall.90003 90002 Some older wood burning stoves are rear vent models. These models require the use of a tee for cleanout purposes at the flue collar. Like top-vent models, they require a minimum of 12 inches of vertical rise before directing the vent pipe horizontally. Please see your owner’s manual for more details. 90003 90002 There is one main difference between wood-burning and direct-vent stoves. Some direct-vent stoves are rear-vent models and able to vent horizontally from the flue collar to the wall.Other direct-vent stoves are «slant-back» models, meaning the flue collar is positioned at a 45-degree angle on the unit, allowing some versatility for vertical or horizontal venting without having to use a 90-degree elbow. For more information on venting direct-vent stoves, please see the section on direct-vent pipe. 90003 90013 What is Type B Gas Pipe? 90014 90002 Type B gas pipe, also called «B-Vent» or «Natural Vent,» is prefabricated, double-wall metal pipe used to vent gas appliances listed for use with Type B gas vent.Type B pipe is becoming less prevalent for venting hearth products, but many furnaces and water heaters still use it. 90003 90004 90005 90143 90007 90008 90002 The biggest reason for the declining use of Type B vent pipes for hearth products is their lack of efficiency, especially compared to direct vent and vent-free units. However, there is still a market for B-Vent piping for fireplaces because of its economic viability, which makes it particularly appealing for contractors and builders.Another advantage of Type B is that it is not typically susceptible to excessive draft problems, due in part to the draft hood that draws in excess air to moderate strong draft. Most B-Vent pipe has a one-inch clearance to combustibles. 90003 90002 Type B pipe is never suitable to be used with wood-burning or coal-burning appliances. Also, it should never be used as a free-standing exhaust pipe for high-temperature venting. 90003 90013 What is Pellet Vent Pipe? 90014 90002 Pellet vent pipe is used to vent pellet-burning or corn-burning stoves.These pipes are smaller in diameter than any other vent pipe, usually with a diameter of 3 or 4 inches. Double wall pellet pipe requires a 1-inch clearance to combustibles. And unlike stove pipe, pellet vent pipe does not require Class A chimney pipe for installation. 90003 90002 In other words, you are not required to convert pellet vent pipe to Class A chimney pipe when passing through a wall or a ceiling. Pellet pipe is used all the way from the pellet-burning or corn-burning appliance to the termination point.90003 90002 Similar to direct-vent systems, pellet venting can be terminated either vertically or horizontally. If terminating horizontally, the cap must be at least 6 inches from the outer wall of your home. If terminating vertically, the cap must be at least 12 inches above the roof. 90003 90004 90005 90160 90007 90008 90002 If you are venting for a pellet-burning insert, however, your appliance will require a flex pipe to bypass the smoke shelf. At this point you would be able to convert to rigid chimney or pellet vent pipe with an adaptor.90003 90013 Types of Chimney Termination Caps 90014 90104 Class A Chimney Caps 90105 90002 Class A chimney pipes have their own specialized caps that fit right on top of the pipe at the point of termination above the roofline, commonly referred to as chimney caps. When terminating a Class A system, you must follow what is known as the «10-3-2» rule or the «10-foot, 2-foot» rule. 90003 90004 90005 90173 90007 90008 90002 This rule is explained by the Natural Fire Protection Association (NFPA) as follows: 90003 90002 «A chimney for residential-type or low-heat gas utilization equipment appliances shall extend at least 3 ft (0.9 m) above the highest point where it passes through a roof of a building and at least 2 ft (0.6 m) higher than any portion of a building within a horizontal distance of 10 ft (3 m) «(NFPA ANSI Z223.1 , Section 10.5.2.1). 90003 90004 90005 90182 90007 90008 90002 Please note that this code must be met with the 10-foot radius, clear of any obstruction at the top of your pipe before your cap is installed. This rule is in place to ensure proper draft for your unit. If you have any questions about whether your system meets code with regard to this requirement, feel free to call or email us, and we will be happy to help.90003 90104 Direct Vent and Pellet Vent Termination Caps 90105 90004 90005 90191 90007 90008 90030 90031 90032 Vertical Termination Caps 90033: A vertical termination cap is for use, obviously, when terminating vent pipes vertically through a roof. Depending on which manufacturer of pipe you use, there may be some specialization options like a high-wind cap (to protect against wind), a low-profile cap (to protect against rain), or an extended vertical cap (to protect against extremely cold climates).And depending on your roof’s pitch, you may need anywhere from 1 to 5 feet of pipe extending past your roofline. As always, check your manufacturer’s guidelines for proper venting and termination of your unit. Some direct-vent caps are made of aluminum while others are made of stainless steel, which is preferable for longevity and reliability. 90034 90035 90031 90032 Horizontal Termination Caps 90033: One distinct difference with direct-vent systems is the option to terminate horizontally on an outside wall.As with the vertical caps, there may be a few specialized options, including round or square caps. Be sure to check your manufacturer’s guidelines for proper clearances for horizontal termination of your unit. These guidelines will specify the appropriate distance you’ll need from your wall, windows, doors and other parts of the home. Also, some appliances may call for a minimum amount of vent rise before horizontal termination is permitted. 90034 90035 90031 90032 Snorkel 90033: Patented by Simpson DuraVent, this component is for horizontal, through-the-wall terminations when a vertical rise is required to meet minimum height requirements.The most common use of this term would be installations in basements and situations where your appliance is installed below grade. 90034 90035 90040 90104 Type B Caps 90105 90002 Type B systems can involve a multitude of distinct piping components, and the termination point is no different. B-Vent systems can only be terminated vertically, with several different kinds of caps available depending on your manufacturer’s guidelines and requirements. See the chart below for help with measurements.90003 90004 90005 90217 90007 90008 90013 Other Components for Chimney Pipe Installation 90014 90002 In addition to your pipe and chimney / termination cap, here are several chimney components you may need for your installation. 90003 90030 90031 90032 Anchor Pate / Flue Adaptor 90033: The vast majority of fireplaces, stoves, and inserts need an anchor plate (usually for zero clearance and masonry fireplaces) or a flue adaptor (usually for stoves and direct vent fireplaces) to use a particular kind of chimney system.For example, if you purchase a zero clearance wood-burning fireplace with an 8 «flue and want to use the Simpson DuraVent DuraTech chimney pipe, you would need to use the DuraVent DVL 6-Inch Double-Wall Stovepipe to Stove Flue Adaptor. 90034 90035 90031 90032 Elbow / Elbow Kit 90033: Elbows are often needed in chimney systems for a variety of reasons. Unless you are able to vent your chimney system vertically or horizontally without any obstructions blocking your path, you are going to need an elbow of some kind.All manufacturers specify the offset parameters for each hearth appliance in the owner’s manual. So you’ll want to consult your manual for this specific information regarding your unit. 90034 90040 90002 While many stove pipe and direct vent pipe systems use 90-degree and 45-degree elbows, Class A chimney pipe systems do not allow for more than a 30-degree elbow. In fact, you’ll need two elbows if offsetting Class A chimney pipe — an elbow to start the offset and another one to end the offset.For this reason, most Class A chimney manufacturers only sell elbows in kits that have two elbows and an elbow strap for support. Also, only a limited amount of offset is permitted (usually no more than just over 3 feet or less) between the two elbows. Using the two elbows to offset Class A chimney pipes optimizes your chimney’s performance and protects against drafting and flow problems. 90003 90002 When dealing with offsets with stove pipe and direct vent pipe, you can offset to go around an obstruction for up to nearly 60 inches for stove pipe and nearly 40 inches for the direct vent pipe.Pellet Vent pipe, however, can be offset for almost 80 inches. These are approximations. Please consult the section pertaining to offsets in the owner’s manual for your appliance and the pipe manufacturer’s guidelines for offset allowance with each type of pipe. 90003 90030 90031 90032 Elbow Strap / Wall Strap 90033: Many manufacturers provide elbow straps for many kinds of pipe to support chimney systems with offsets. You’ll use wall straps — one every 4-5 feet of vent rise — when running a Class A or direct vent chimney pipes vertically inside a chase or alongside a wall.90034 90035 90031 90032 Ceiling Support Box / Thimble 90033: These components are necessary for use when the pipe is exposed and exiting the room where the appliance is located. If you are venting vertically through the ceiling / roof, you will need a ceiling support box or a round ceiling support. If you are venting horizontally through the wall, you will need a thimble. In stove pipe systems, these components will serve not only as support pieces but also as the transition point from stove pipe to Class A chimney.In direct-vent systems, these will be used only for support, as there is no transition to another kind of pipe. 90034 90035 90004 90005 90252 90007 90008 90031 90032 Firestop / Attic Insulation Shield 90033: When passing through a ceiling, floor, or attic, you will need to use one of these components. If a ceiling support is not used, the firestop is required for passing through ceilings in multi-story homes, while the attic insulation shield is required when passing through an attic.Both of these pieces ensure your pipe maintains proper clearances as it passes through combustible ceilings and floors. 90034 90035 90031 90032 Chimney Tee / Tee Support 90033: When your chimney system passes through the wall, you will need a tee and tee support to serve as a 90-degree bend to turn your chimney up toward your roof. Tees are most commonly used as connectors between stove pipe and Class A chimney systems, as the pipe that exits the home needs to be turned 90-degrees to run vertically up to the roof for termination.All Class A chimney tees will need tee support as the base support point for the vertical pipe. 90034 90035 90031 90032 Roof Support 90033: Placed underneath the flashing on the roof, the roof support is designed to support pipe both above and below the roof. There is a limited amount of pipe it will support, particularly below the roof, but this component is ideal if you do not have a ceiling support box as part of your system. 90034 90035 90031 90032 Flashing / Storm Collar 90033: A flashing and storm collar go hand-in-hand; they are designed to protect your chimney system from weather damage.The flashing is the piece that covers the hole in your roof where the pipe penetrates. The storm collar fits around your pipe just above the flashing to prevent rain or snow from getting into the minuscule crevice between your flashing and pipe. You need to select a flashing appropriate for your roof pitch. A roof pitch is a measurement of vertical rise over a horizontal distance of 12 inches. For example, if your roof has a vertical rise of 3 inches over a 12-inch horizontal distance, your pitch is 3/12.90034 90035 90031 90032 Extended Roof Bracket 90033: When your chimney extends more than 5 feet above your roof, you need an extended roof bracket to provide stabilization for your pipe against the wind. 90034 90040 90013 Summary 90014 90002 We hope this guide has been helpful and informative. Remember, it can not be stressed enough to consult your owner’s manual above all else when considering how to vent your hearth appliance. Some local codes require you to use only the kind of pipe listed in your owner’s manual for your unit.Always check with your local building code officials when designing a chimney system to ensure proper installation. If you have lost your owner’s manual, please call or email us, and a member from our knowledgeable staff will be happy to see if we can locate one for your fireplace, stove, or insert. 90003 90284 90285 About the Author 90286 Collin Champagne 90002 Approaching his 10-year work anniversary, Collin is one of our National Fireplace Institute (NFI) certified technicians and content manager for the eFireplacestore, eCanopy, and EliteDeals brands.He is a Master Hearth Professional, which means he is certified in all three hearth appliance fields — wood, gas and pellet. 90003 90002 When not at work, he spends time with his wife, Lindsey, and his sons, Samuel and Eli, on their ranch enjoying their many animals. Completing projects around the ranch and spending quality time with his family are among his greatest joys. 90003.90000 A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood 90001 90002 When people report problems with the performance of their wood burning systems, the cause is often traced to the chimney. Selecting the correct chimney and designing the layout of the installation is critical to good performance. And knowing how chimneys work is useful in the day-to-day operation of the appliance. 90003 90002 Chimneys operate on the principle that hot air rises because it is less dense than cold air.When a chimney is filled with hot gas, that gas tends to rise because it is less dense than the air outside the house. The rising hot gas creates a pressure difference called draft which draws combustion air into the appliance and expels the exhaust gas outside. 90003 90002 Two factors affect the amount of draft produced by a chimney. 90003 90002 1. Heat: the hotter the gases in the chimney compared to the air outside, the stronger the draft. 90003 90002 2. Height: the taller the chimney, the more draft it will produce at a given temperature difference.90003 90002 The table below shows how heat in the chimney and chimney height work together to produce draft. 90003 90014 Pressure differences resulting from various temperature differences and various stack heights, in pascals 90015 90002 90017 90003 90002 Notes: 90003 90021 90022 The red figures in the body of the table are the number of pascals (Pa) of pressure difference that result from the intersecting temperature difference and stack heights. One Pa is equal to 0.004 inches of water column ( «wc).90023 90022 The lower two rows of the table body can be used to roughly estimate total stack effect (- & + values) in houses during cold weather. 90023 90022 A single point flue gas temperature measurement, usually at the flue pipe, will give a higher temperature than the average for the total system because of heat loss through the chimney, and therefore will inflate predicted draft levels unless a correction is applied. 90023 90022 Combustion and venting system height measurements should be taken from the base of the firebox; i.e. from where it gets hot. 90023 90030 90002 The chimney’s function is to produce the draft that draws combustion air into the appliance and safely exhaust the combustion gases to the outside. But a good chimney must do more than that. It must: 90003 90033 90022 protect the house structure from the hot gases passing through it; 90023 90022 tolerate the high gas temperatures that can result from chimney fire; 90023 90022 conserve flue gas heat to produce strong draft; 90023 90022 resist corrosion on the inside and weather effects on the outside; and 90023 90022 be sealed to prevent leakage.90023 90044 90002 Here are some basic guidelines for effective chimney installations. Your local code requirements might differ from these, so it is best to check. 90003 90014 Install Chimneys Inside 90015 90002 This chimney is correctly installed. Note that where it passes through a living space, the chimney should be enclosed with light framing and drywall.The chimney should be installed within the house rather than up an outside wall. When chimneys run up outside walls, they are exposed to the outside cold and this chilling effect can reduce the available draft at the appliance.Chimneys that run up through the house benefit from being enclosed within the warm house environment, produce stronger draft and accumulate fewer creosote deposits. Chimneys installed inside the building perform far better than outside chimneys. Even when there is no fire burning, an inside chimney will produce some draft. Not only do outside chimneys cool, leading to cold backdrafts, but they also introduce at least two 90 degree changes in flow direction, which also hinders performance. 90003 90014 Taller Chimneys Produce Stronger Draft 90015 90002 A rule of thumb for minimum height states that the total system height (from the floor the appliance is mounted on to the top of the chimney) should never be less than 4.6 m (15 ft.). Most normal installations exceed this height, but installations in cottages with shallow-pitch roofs may not. If draft problems are experienced with short systems, consider adding to the chimney height. If draft problems are experienced with systems higher than the recommended minimum system height, adding to the chimney may have little or no effect. Most draft problems have to do with inadequate gas temperature in the chimney. 90003 90014 Roof Penetrations Rules 90015 90002 The top of the chimney should extend not less than 1 m (3 ft.) Above the point it exits the roof, and 600 mm (2 ft.) Higher than any roof, building or other obstacle within a horizontal distance of 3 m (10 ft.). These rules are the minimum required. It is often better to make the chimney taller to avoid wind turbulence. A good objective is to have the top of chimney above the roof peak, and this is much easier if the chimney penetrates the roof near the peak. Note that in the graphic below, the chimney on the left will not function well because it penetrates the house envelope below its highest level, and because it is outside being chilled for much of its length.90003 90014 Chimney Size Should Match the Appliance 90015 90002 The chimney flue should be the same size as the appliance flue collar. Chimneys that are over-sized for the appliance they serve are common, partly because people used to think that bigger is better. Now it is clear that bigger is not better when it comes to chimney sizing. A given volume of flue gas flows faster and has less time to lose heat in a small chimney flue than in a large one. In planning wood heating systems, experienced installers will sometimes choose a chimney that has a smaller inside diameter than the appliance flue collar.This is usually done when the chimney runs inside the house and is very tall. Chimneys that exceed 8 m (about 25 ft.) In height sometimes produce more draft than the appliance needs, so a smaller chimney can be used without any reduction in performance. The decision as to whether the flue size may be reduced from that of the appliance flue collar must be left to an experienced technician. 90003 90063 Is Your House a Better Chimney Than Your Chimney? 90064 90002 An operating chimney is an enclosed column of warm air or gases surrounded by colder outside air.The warm air or gas in the chimney is more buoyant than the dense cold outside air so it rises, producing draft in the system. 90003 90002 90068 This outside chimney will cold backdraft when no fire burns in the stoveIn winter, your house is also an enclosed column of warm, buoyant air creating a form of «draft.» In effect, the warm air pushes up towards the top of the house, creating higher air pressure there. At the same time, the pressure in the basement is lower than the pressure outside.That is why the basement of a leaky house feels «drafty» as the cold outside air is drawn into the area of ​​lower pressure, while rooms on the second floor are more comfortable. Between the high pressure zone high in the house and the low pressure zone low in the house is a band of pressure equal to atmospheric pressure outside the house which is called the neutral pressure plane (NPP). The difference in pressure at various levels of the house is referred to as stack effect. 90003 90002 Some houses make better chimneys than others.Two or three-storey houses produce more stack effect than bungalows because their column of warm air is taller. A house with most of its leaks at the upper levels tends to produce more stack effect because the leaks offer a ready path for warm air to escape — like the open top of a chimney. 90003 90002 Good chimneys — ones that are insulated and run up through the house — are not affected by stack effect. Stack effect is always present in houses, but it has little or no effect on draft if the chimney is installed up through the warm part of the house.90003 90002 Outside chimneys can reverse if the stack effect is strong enough, allowing smoke or cold outside air to spill into the house through the appliance. 90003 90002 90077 In winter, a cold backdraft will make it very hard to light a fire in this stove.One situation in which the influence of stack effect is most troublesome is when an appliance served by a chimney is installed in the basement of a single- storey addition to a two-storey house, as shown in the illustration. This form of installation should be avoided if possible.90003 90002 Chimneys that penetrate the building envelope below its highest level, like those illustrated above, will not function well. Ideally, the wood burning system on the left should be moved so its chimney can rise through the two story section of the house. Similarly, the system on the right should be moved so its chimney penetrates the cathedral ceiling closer to its highest point. 90003 90063 Suitable Chimney Options 90064 90002 Factory-built metal chimneys of particular types may be used with wood-burning appliances.Wood stoves, central heating furnaces and some factory-built fireplaces must use a specialized high temperature metal chimney. Your wood heat retailer can show you the differences between the various types and which one you will need to use for your installation. All factory-built chimneys must have the proper cap installed to prevent water from leaking into the insulation and to provide reliable draft. 90003 90002 Masonry chimneys that are built according to the rules found in building codes may be used with wood-burning appliances.These chimneys consist of a clay tile liner surrounded by brick or stone. If you are planning to have a masonry chimney built, be sure to get a building permit and make it clear to the mason who will do the work that you want it to conform to the building code rules. 90003 90002 A conventional masonry chimney consists of clay tile liners surrounded by a brick, block or stone structure. Stainless steel liners can be installed in masonry chimneys when they are built or to correct internal damage in an existing chimney.Existing masonry chimneys should be inspected by a qualified chimney sweep before a wood-burning appliance is connected. Because a conventional masonry chimney has no insulation and functions as a heat sink that soaks up flue gas heat, it is advisable to install a stainless steel chimney liner before using it to vent a wood heating appliance. 90003 90002 If you have a masonry chimney that you want checked, hire a qualified chimney sweep to inspect it. If you see any deterioration of the bricks or mortar joints near the top of the chimney, or if there are dark stains on the brick work, you should have the chimney inspected immediately.Masonry chimneys that have been damaged by old age or a chimney fire, or are too large for the appliance you want to connect can be relined with a certified stainless steel liner. These liners can be of either rigid or flex design. 90003 90063 Creosote and Chimney Fires 90064 90002 When wood is burned slowly to make a smoky fire, the smoke can condense on the cool inner surface of the chimney producing creosote deposits. Creosote is a highly-flammable material. If it ignites at the base of the chimney, it can produce a raging fire that travels up the chimney causing extremely high temperatures as it spreads.The high temperature can damage the clay liners in a masonry chimney or the metal liner in a factory-built chimney. Although 650 ° C chimneys can withstand chimney fire temperatures, the heat still causes extreme stress in the chimney. 90003 90002 Chimney fires are the result of poor appliance firing technique combined with a lack of proper chimney maintenance. When wood-burning appliances are operated properly using the techniques outlined later in this booklet, some creosote may still be deposited, but it will be of a less combustible type.Instead of the black, tarry type of creosote that results from smoldering fires, the creosote that results from proper firing is soft, flaky and dark brown in colour. 90003 90002 Chimney fires can be prevented. Chimneys should be checked for creosote deposits regularly until you know how quickly it builds up in your chimney. Conventional wood stoves can produce creosote quickly because they are unable to burn the wood as completely as the advanced designs. In severe cases, enough creosote to sustain a damaging chimney fire can be deposited in only a few days.The newer, low-emission wood stoves burn the wood so completely that, when they are operated properly, their chimneys normally need cleaning only once each year. 90003 90002 Never assume that the chimney is clean. Check it regularly to be certain, especially during the spring and fall seasons. If you do have a chimney fire, have the chimney inspected and repaired if necessary before using the system. 90003.

Разное