Кнауф плиты для пола вместо стяжки: Кнауф Суперпол | Все плюсы и минусы сухой стяжки Кнауф РемонтУм

суть технологии сухой стяжки, ее плюсы и минусы, виды плит, а также инструкция, как выровнять поверхность с помощью панелей

Основное достоинство сухой стяжки — отсутствие «мокрых» процессов при укладке. Достаточно засыпать основание пола для выравнивания керамзитом, хорошо его утрамбовать и уложить гипсоволоконные плиты. Такая система обладает необходимой прочностью, обеспечивает идеальную ровность покрытия, готова к эксплуатации уже на следующий день после монтажа. В статье подробно рассказано о разновидностях покрытия, его преимуществах и недостатках, а так же о технологии производства работ.

Что собой представляет технология Knauf?

Системы Кнауф — это конструкции без пустот с лёгким монтажом, которые подходят для таких помещений и зданий:

• с коммуникациями и сетями, которые требуют покрытия сухими материалами;
• с минимальной нагрузкой на перекрытие;
• требуется значительное поднятие уровня пола;
• стеснённые сроки работ;
• невозможно выполнять «мокрую» стяжку;
• повышенные требования к шумо- и звукоизоляции перекрытия.

Установка систем Кнауф допускается по бетонным или деревянным поверхностям. По СНиПам выдвигаются следующие требования к сухой стяжке:

1. Режим микроклимата должен быть сухим или с нормальной влажностью.
2. Механические нагрузки, агрессивность среды должна быть умеренной.
3. По климатическим, инженерно-геологическим условиям, этажности здания, классу огнеупорности ограничений нет.

Совет

При установке такой системы в ванных комнатах нужна хорошая гидроизоляция поверхности сухой стяжки.

Группы технологии Кнауф:

• Альфа.
• Бета.
• Вега.
• Гамма.

Любая из них может эксплуатироваться только в тех помещениях, в которых влажность не превышает 60-70%, а температура не опускается ниже 10 °C.

Преимущества и недостатки

Главные достоинства технологии:

• соответствие мировым стандартам качества;
• благоприятный микроклимат, полностью экологически чистые составляющие;
• возможность создания даже сложных архитектурных форм и поверхностей;
• естественная регуляция уровня влажности, так как наполнитель и сами плиты могут поглощать или отдавать влагу для выравнивания уровня этого показателя микроклимата;
• экономичность системы за счёт меньшего веса;
• отсутствие «мокрых» процессов;
• все работы выполняются просто, качественно, очень быстро.

Среди недостатков:

• чувствительность к влаге;
• низкая прочность на точечное давление, например, в гаражах под автомобили или в комнаты под тяжёлую мебель устанавливать невозможно.

Характеристики и эксплуатационные качества

Листы выпускаются с размерами 1200×600 мм толщиной 10 мм. В отличие от классических листов гипсокартона гипсоволоконные плиты обладают более прочным переплетением волокон вместо бумажного слоя, что обеспечивает необходимую прочность. Это позволяет применять их для обустройства напольного покрытия.

Плиты состоят из двух пластин, которые склеиваются между собой с небольшим сдвигом. В результате этого на кромках образовывается «замок», которым соединяются между собой соседние листы. Получается сплошное монолитное покрытие с отличными характеристиками.

Важно

Может укладываться поверх плит любое финишное напольное покрытие, включая кафельную плитку, наливные системы.

Под плиты на нужную высоту засыпается мелкофракционный керамзит или керамзитовый песок. Чтобы обеспечить устойчивость и прочность насыпи, его утрамбовывают. Тогда при нагрузке на плиты вес распределяется равномерно по всем направлениям. Листы между собой состыковываются поэтапно: сначала на торцы наносится клеевая смесь, а после фиксации их дополнительно стягивают саморезами.

Разновидности

В зависимости от типа системы суперпол Кнауф выделяют конструкции для ровных оснований без дополнительной изоляции или с утеплительными, звуко- и шумопоглощающими слоями.

«Альфа»

Самый простой по конструкции вариант системы Кнауф. Недорогой, используется только в качестве покрытия на ровных поверхностях или перекрытиях. Состоит только из гипсоволоконных плит без дополнительных слоёв или засыпки.

«Бета»

Более сложная система, которая, кроме гипсоволоконных плит, содержит подложку, выполненную из пористоволоконной теплоизоляции. Предназначается для ровных напольных перекрытий, на которых не устанавливается насыпной слой керамзита.

«Вега»

В данном типе суперпола Кнауф применяется подложка с выравниванием посредством слоя сухой засыпки. Применяется на поверхностях с небольшими неровностями, в помещениях, где требуется повышенная звуко- и шумоизоляция, тепловой барьер.

«Гамма»

Наиболее сложная система суперпола Кнауф, которая соединяет в себе выравнивающий слой сухой засыпки керамзитного песка, подложки из пористоволоконных тепло- и звукоизолирующих материалов, комбинированного внутреннего слоя для повышения прочностных и других характеристик плит. Применяются для установки в помещениях, где есть существенные перепады по высоте или где необходима установка пола на более высоком уровне по сравнению с расположением основания.

Как выровнять половую поверхность с помощью панелей?

Для выравнивания полов с помощью Кнауф нужно выполнить несколько мероприятий, чтобы плиты при эксплуатации выдерживали нагрузки мебели и ходьбы человека, не расходились по швам. Для этого нужно:

1. Подготовить основание, очистить его от мусора, выровнять.
2. Провести разметку, отбить горизонтальный уровень, по которому будет укладываться пол.
3. Установить акустический материал, утеплитель рулонный, плитный или насыпной, проложить гидроизоляцию.
4. Засыпать поверхность керамзитной крошкой, утрамбовать её.
5. Выполнить укладку ГВЛ листов, проклеить, скрепить их саморезами.

Внимание

Все процессы не требуют использования воды и должны выполняться при температурах не ниже 10 °C и влажности до 70%.

Подготовка основания

1. Самое главное при подготовке поверхности пола под укладку гипсоволоконных плит – это полная тщательная очистка от старого покрытия, заделка дефектов, уборка мусора.
2. Если на основании есть трещины, размер которых по ширине превышает 3-5 мм, то их необходимо расшивать перпендикулярными пропилами. Делается это острым предметом, которым пропиливается вдоль трещины более широкое углубление. Нужно вычистить щель, промазать грунтовкой, высушить и заполнить цементным раствором.
3. Затем убрать весь мусор, который образовывается в ходе очистки основания от старого покрытия. Пыль и мелкий сор устраняются пылесосом, крупные обломки материала собираются вручную или совком и веником. Хорошо выполнить влажную уборку для более эффективного результата.

Отбивка горизонтального уровня

Лазерным уровнем или строительным со спиртовой капсулой определяется наивысшая точка на основании напольного перекрытия. Относительно неё на стенах по периметру помещения наносится линия, которая соответствует «нулевому» уровню. По ней будет выполняться отбивка горизонтального уровня для поверхности ГВЛ плит.

Гидроизоляция, утеплитель и акустический материал

Для обустройства слоя гидроизоляции применяется демпферная лента и полиэтиленовая плёнка.

1. Сначала по всей площади выстилается слой гидроизоляции с заходом примерно на 15–20 см на стены по периметру помещения, учитывая дверные проёмы. Здесь плёнку заводят на порог, а после установки системы остатки срезают.
2. Демпферную ленту укладывают до отмеченной высоты пола по стене от поверхности основания перекрытия.
3. Если применяется утеплитель и акустический материал, то их установка выполняется по техническим требованиям к работе с выбранным материалом.

Засыпка керамзитовой крошки

Главное правило при засыпке слоя керамзитового песка – это достижение толщины не более 1,2-1,4 см, чтобы плиты под давлением веса человека или мебели не деформировались, не трескались, не расслаивались. Чаще всего подобные насыпи не превышают 10 мм, не учитывая толщину самого ГВЛ.

Совет

Любое нарушение технологии приводит к преждевременному износу поверхности, порче плит, разрушению напольного покрытия.

Укладка листов ГВЛ

Плиты укладываются с использованием таких материалов:

• листы ГВЛ Кнауф;
• песок керамзитный;
• профиль П-образный;
• шпаклёвка Кнауф;
• мастика клеевая Кнауф.

Необходимые инструменты:

• карандаш;
• отбивочный шнур;
• рулетка;
• уровень лазерный или со спиртовой капсулой;
• электролобзик или ножовка для резки плит;
• шуруповёрт;
• электродрель;
• нивелирующая рейка или правило.

Если планируется засыпка поверхности слоем керамзитового песка с толщиной 1 см, то на 1 м² уйдёт примерно 10 л материала.

Инструкция по монтажу суперпола

1. Выполняются работы по подготовке основания, нанесению разметки на стены.
2. По сделанным отметкам производится первая засыпка, которую выстилают грядами вдоль стены и с расстоянием примерно 0,8-1 м между соседними в одном направлении.
3. Посредством нивелирующей рейки или правила вся смесь разравнивается по площади основания, при этом можно сформировать прочные островки, по которым можно будет перемещаться.
4. П-образный профиль утапливается поверх установленных насыпных гряд.
5. По уровню все направляющие выравниваются до нанесённой ранее на стены разметки.
6. Начиная с дальнего угла помещения, вся сухая смесь выравнивается по установленным маякам.
7. Сразу после выравнивания от дальнего угла до выхода с комнаты насыпного материала из него извлекаются маяки.
8. Листы или фанера размером 0,5×0,5 м укладываются, начиная с области возле дверного проёма. Можно будет на неё наступать и выполнять укладку дальше.
9. В области, где к стене примыкают ГВЛ Кнауф, выполняется надрез так, чтобы сухая смесь не выходила наружу.
10. Первый слой листов промазывается клеевым составом по зигзагам, чтобы захватить большую площадь для проклеивания со вторым слоем полотен.
11. С шагом 27–30 см вкручиваются саморезы для скрепления плит.
12. Соблюдая смещение стыков для следующих рядов плит, выполняется укладка покрытия.
13. Смещение листов не должно быть меньше 25 см.
14. На всю поверхность плит после полной их укладки наносится грунтовка. Дожидаются её высыхания. Стыки зашпаклёвываются, просушиваются.

Важно

Если необходимо повысить прочность суперпола Кнауф, то со смещением относительно швов и подрезкой соответствующих листов выстилается 2 или даже 3 слой ГВЛ.

Советы по укладке плит сухой стяжки

Основные правила укладки сухой стяжки Кнауф:

• для используемых материалов, включая напольные плиты, необходима акклиматизация на протяжении нескольких суток в том помещении, где будет выполняться их монтаж;
• для хранения нужно выделить область с ровным основанием с достаточной площадью для горизонтальной укладки полотен;
• перепады по высоте у слоя керамзитового песка должны быть минимальными относительно основания;
• если монтаж системы суперпола Кнауф выполняется в комнатах, где при эксплуатации будет повышаться влажность, нужно укладывать гидроизоляцию перед засыпкой керамзита, устанавливать по кромке стены демпферную ленту, защищать полотна герметиком, который выпускается этим производителем;
• максимальная толщина саомвыравнивающейся шпаклёвки поверх плит напольной конструкции не должна превышать 2 мм.

Сухая стяжка для пола — это инновационная технология, позволяющая сэкономить усилия, средства и добиться отличных характеристик напольного покрытия. Кроме повышения теплоизоляции, пол приобретает дополнительный барьер от шума и влаги. Плиты позволяют устанавливать даже объекты сложной формы и конфигурации, что делает материал универсальным и востребованным.

При эксплуатации необходимо ограничивать поверхность пола от контакта с влагой, поскольку листы хорошо впитывают воду, испарения из воздуха.

Сухая стяжка Кнауф

Сухая стяжка – это гипсоволокнистые листы (ГВЛ), которые укладываются на слой сухой засыпки Кнауф. Пол также называется насыпным, но в России больше прижилось название «сухая стяжка Knauf».

Схема устройства сухой стяжки

В устройстве сухой стяжки критически важную роль играет зерновой состав засыпки.

Он должен соответствовать показателям:

• Насыпная плотность: 500-600 кг/м³
• Влажность: <1%
• Осадка: <5%

Этим показателям соответствуют: перлитовый, керамзитовый или шлаковый песок, но чаще используют готовую и отлично зарекомендовавшую себя сухую засыпку Компэвит Knauf .

Поэтому, говоря о сухой стяжке, всегда называют компанию Knauf.

Насыпной пол Кнауф – это третий вариант основания для пола. С первыми двумя – классической песко-цементной стяжкой и полом на лагах ознакомьтесь по ссылкам. Чтобы помочь вам сделать правильный выбор, сравним все 3 основания.

Сухая стяжка Knauf – дёшево и сердито

Предлагая вам насыпной пол в качестве основания, мастер говорит о его преимуществах. Давайте посмотрим на сухую стяжку в сравнении:

Высокие показатели тепло- и звукоизоляции. Сухая стяжка – очень тёплый пол, это правда. Причём, для этого не нужно никаких дополнительных материалов. Основание само по себе тёплое и обладает отменной звукоизоляцией.

По этому показателю насыпной пол выигрывает у песко-цементной стяжки, для которой нужна дополнительная звукоизоляция. А вот пол на лагах не требует дополнительных вложений – он тоже отлично держит тепло и блокирует звук.

Малый вес. То есть – малая нагрузка на межэтажные перекрытия. Важнейший показатель для старых домов. Что видим при сравнении?

Классическая песко-цементная стяжка – в 3 раза тяжелее насыпного пола.

Пол на лагах наоборот – за счёт конструкции из деревянных брусьев легчайшее основание, применяется даже в зданиях с деревянными перекрытиями.

Песко-цементная стяжка не конкурент – длительное время высыхания, о чистоте и говорить не приходится.

Пол на лагах – скорость монтажа такая же и идеальная чистота при монтаже, поэтому пол на лагах монтируют в самом конце ремонта.

Чисто и быстро. Отсутствие влажных процедур делает монтаж пола безупречно чистым и не требует времени на высыхание. Отсюда и скорость работ – 2-х комнатная квартира за 1 день! Сравниваем.

Видео — монтаж стяжки по сухой засыпке кнауф

Теперь поговорим о том, о чём умалчивают многие мастера – о недостатках.

Насыпной пол Knauf: семь бед – один ответ?

ГЛАВНОЕ! Когда вас убеждают, что сухая стяжка пригодна для укладки ЛЮБЫХ видов напольных покрытий: от линолеума до паркета – знайте, это не всегда так!

Наша компания «Современные Технологии Паркета» 10 лет специализируется на укладке паркета, мы досконально знаем на какое основание можно и нужно укладывать паркет. Ниже расскажем об этом.

Если же вам прямо сейчас нужна подробная консультация, позвоните нашему инженеру-технологу +7(495) 363-87-99

Дело в том, что поверхностная прочность плит ГВЛ, которые укладываются на сухую засыпку, недостаточна для укладки паркета на клей. Но есть один вариант – использовать разделительную подложку из полиэстерного волокна Multimoll:

Схема укладки штучного паркета на стяжку по сухой засыпке

    

Сухую стяжку из ГВЛ-плит необходимо загрунтовать, а затем приклеить и прикатать подложку из полиэстерного волокна Multimoll

    

Смета, сроки и гарантия закрепляются в договоре

Но это НЕ идеальный вариант, он подходит только для штучного паркета. Для укладки массивной доски, нужно использовать только пол на лагах – профессионалы отмечают этот вариант как самый долговечный и надёжный.

А если потоп?

Стяжка Knauf патологически боится влаги и это главный её минус. В случае затопления не спасти ни покрытие, ни основание – понадобится серьёзный ремонт паркета.

И последнее. Если плиты межэтажных перекрытий неровные – с большими выбоинами и пустотами, то насыпной пол НЕ ИСПРАВИТ ситуацию. В этом случае, сначала придётся выровнять основание цементной стяжкой, и только потом можно укладывать насыпной пол Knauf. Но тогда теряются все основные преимущества сухой стяжки.

Идеальное место для использования сухой стяжки в качестве основания пола – офисные помещения. Дёшево и сердито – и в любой момент так же быстро и дёшево основание можно поменять.

Если вы рассмотрите преимущества сухой стяжки «под микроскопом недостатков», о которых умалчивают продавцы, то увидите, что это основание далеко не идеально. Особенно для укладки такого элитного покрытия, как паркет. Единственный оптимальный вариант использования такого основания – под укладку паркетной доски плавающим способом как на видео (но есть более надёжные способы укладки ).

Видео — укладка плавающего способа

Чтобы сделать правильный и экономически целесообразный выбор, нужно проконсультироваться со специалистом. Сделайте это, тем более что консультация бесплатна. Инженер-технолог компании «СТП» ответит на ваши вопросы:

Вместо P.S. – облегченная цементная стяжка Knauf UBO

Пол на лагах и классическая стяжка – не единственные альтернативы сухой стяжке. Привлекательный вариант – облегченная цементная стяжка Knauf UBO.

Она значительно легче песко-цементной стяжки (её удельный вес такой же, как у сухой стяжки – всего 7 кг/м² на сантиметр толщины, а у классической стяжки – 22 кг/м²).

Кроме этого, Knauf UBO не боится воды, прекрасно выравнивает любые уклоны и перепады высоты, и не ограничен по толщине (вплоть до 35 см). А слой сухой засыпки не может быть выше 6 см. При больших высотах придётся укладывать промежуточный слой ГВЛ, а поверх опять использовать сухую засыпку – получается многослойный пирог.

    

Облегченная стяжка Knauf UBO толщиной 25 см. Поверх необходимо нанести прочный, финишный слой обычной песко-цементной стяжки толщиной 3 см или уложить листы ГВЛ Knauf

Мы рассказали вам о сухой стяжке, её плюсах и минусах, а также сравнили с другими основаниями. Чтобы не заблудиться в этом «лесу» информации, свяжитесь с нашим инженером-технологом +7 (495) 363-87-99. Он бесплатно проконсультирует вас:

Связаться с технологом

90000 Dry screed with their own hands — pluses and minuses (KNAUF example) | With Your Hands 90001 90002 Do not fill, but collect! 90003 90004 Dry prefabricated screeds are widely used both in the repair of apartments, and in suburban construction. They honorably passed the test of time, and now you can objectively talk about the advantages and disadvantages of the design, as well as the nuances of installation, affecting its properties and durability 90005 90004 As a rule, the finishing floor can not be laid directly on the floor.The latter is rarely even enough for this, and besides, it may be difficult to isolate sound and heat. To correct these shortcomings, you need a rough layer, a popular version of which is a dry screed. 90005 90004 The screed of this type can be performed in an apartment in two or three days (two installers per working shift collect an average of 30-40 mg of sex), and labor costs are almost independent of the thickness of the layer. It does not require drying, it combines with most floor coverings, it perfectly isolates heat and noise — both shock and air.A dry screed allows you to save money and is indispensable if you need to significantly raise the level of the floor or smooth out large irregularities. Building standards (in particular, JV 29.133302011) recommend to apply it in those cases when it is necessary to avoid wet processes and speed up the production work. 90005 90004 But that the screed coped with its task and did not require repair after a few years, it is necessary to choose the right materials and to prevent rejection during installation.90005 90002 DRY SCREED PLUSES AND MINUS 90003 90004 90015 PLUSES OF DRY SCRAP 90016 90005 90004 + High speed of erection and the possibility to cover the finishing floor almost immediately (after 2 h). 90005 90004 + Ability without significant increase in labor costs to eliminate significant differences in the level. 90005 90004 + A small mass, allowing the use of construction in houses with weak ceilings. 90005 90004 + Absence of wet processes and, accordingly, the risk of leaks into the apartment on the floor below.90005 90004 + Possibility of laying communications in the thickness of the backfill. 90005 90004 + High maintainability in comparison with concrete screed. 90005 90004 + Good heat and sound insulation. 90005 90004 90015 MINUSES OF DRY SCRAP 90016 90005 90004 — Screed with backfill does not tolerate moisture; when it is used in bathrooms, waterproofing (for example, coating) is required. 90005 90004 — The screed must not be used in rooms with vibration loads on the floor. 90005 90004 — Installation of heating elements (both water and electric) in the thickness of the subfloor requires non-standard structural solutions.90005 90042 90004 See also: Dry screed with your own hands — photo and how to make 90005 90042 90002 OBJECTIVES AND SOLUTIONS 90003 90004 Dry screed can serve different purposes, depending on which its components are selected. Leveling the floor and raising the floor level. This problem is perfectly handled by the «classical» construction. Its lower layer is made of special expanded clay fill. and the upper one is made of durable sheets on a gypsum or cement base (most often GVLV of thickness 10 mm), which are laid in at least two layers.The easiest way is to install special KNAUF floor elements with an 50 mm mounting seam. 90005 90004 The minimum thickness of the screed is 40 mm, and the maximum — 100 mm. This type of roughing floor is suitable for both plate and beam ceilings (monolithic, prefabricated, wooden with wooden backstroke, etc.). 90005 90004 Improved overlapping characteristics. Claydite filling allows eliminating significant irregularities and differences in the level of the base, providing additional thermal insulation and satisfactory protection against air and impact noise.However, if it is required to significantly improve the thermal insulation ability 90005 90004 (as, for example, in apartments on the ground floor) or provide additional sound insulation 10D6 and more (say, in a home theater or music studio), use other solutions and materials. 90005 90004 Suppose that the overlap does not have significant level differences, but only small irregularities. Then they smooth out the putty, and then lay an effective heat and sound insulation material — high-density mineral wool plates (Rockwool Flor Batts, PAROC 55B 1 or their analogues) or sheets of extruded polystyrene foam; the thickness of this layer is usually 30-50 mm.Overlay GVLV or other sheet material. 90005 90004 If the overlap deviates from the horizontal or there are ledges on it, mount a multilayer structure consisting (from below upwards) of the backfill, packing sheets, heat-sound insulating mats and two layers of GVLV. Instead of floor elements and gypsum-fiber sheets, when installing heat-insulating screeds, plywood, particle board and other wood-based panels are sometimes used, but only if it is a permanent heated apartment or cottage. 90005 90004 Before installation, any sheet materials must be kept in the room for at least three days.Creating a foundation for the tile. 90005 90004 Dry screeds have one more, rather specific scope — the preparation of a plank floor for laying ceramic coatings (in the bathroom, the hallway, the kitchen of a country house). In such cases, good service will be provided by hydrophobized particle boards, cement-based boards and plywood of PSF grade not less than 10 mm thick. They are mounted with screws and / or glue without a substrate (heat and soundproof layers in the wooden floor are usually located between the beams).90005 90002 MOUNTING THE DRY HAIR WITH YOUR HANDS 90003 90004 To the device of a dry screed begin after laying of water, heating and sewer pipes if under the project they should be hidden under a floor. The work is carried out in several stages. 90005 90004 90015 Substrate preparation. 90016 90005 90004 Before the beginning of the work, the floor is cleaned of debris, and the slots and joints of the slabs are sealed with a repair mixture on a cement base. Next, care must be taken to isolate the roughing floor from vapors penetrating from the lower room.To do this, stripes of polyethylene film spread over the overlap, ensuring that they overlap at least 15 cm. Protection from structural noise. This task is solved with the help of edge tape made of foamed polyethylene or a technical plug (thickness of the tape is not less than 10 mm). It is allowed along the walls along the perimeter of the room. Another function of the tape is to compensate for the expansion of the upper layer of the screed when the humidity changes. 90005 90004 90015 Determination of screed level.90016 90005 90004 At zero pitch leveling proceed from the minimum allowable local thickness of the screed, which is up to mm-like for a bulk backfilling structure, and for a heat-insulating one. Using a laser level, marks are placed on the walls and beacons are placed from racks or metal profiles. 90005 90004 When determining the design floor level, account should be taken of shrinkage, which depends on the thickness and quality of the leveling backfill. To reduce the possibility of such changes, it is desirable to compact the filling with a special hand roller.90005 90004 Laying of the main layers. The loose material is leveled by the beacons by the rule, and then in two layers (with the separation of joints required), the moisture resistant sheets are laid, gluing the layers with mastic and fastening them with screws. 90005 90004 If soft materials are used for finishing the floor (carpet, PVC-tiles), the joints of the GKLV are plastered with gypsum-polymer filler. Under thin-layer commercial linoleum, the leveling of the screed with a continuous layer of mortar is additionally required.90005 90086 Installation of soundproof dry screed 90005 90004 90005 90086 To avoid the transfer of vibrations from the screed to the walls and vice versa, a «curb» of narrow bands of sound-absorbing material (a) is laid along the perimeter of the room. The mats made of stone fiber are tightly fitted to each other, cut to size with a sharp knife (6). The plywood is laid in two layers, observing the flushing of the joints and fastening the sheets with screws (in, e). The floor covering is mounted with an indent from the walls, and then build up the «border» to the height of the whole floor cake (d) 90005 90002 TYPICAL ERRORS IN MOUNTING A DRY SCRAP 90003 90004 Absence of a vapor barrier substrate — in due course materials of the rough floor will pick up moisture, and in its thickness a fungus will enter, which will shorten the life of the structure and adversely affect the microclimate in the room.90005 90004 Use of unsuitable backfill, for example large-grained expanded clay gravel or sand with admixture of clay, — the probability of uneven shrinkage is high. 90005 90004 Absence of a compensating tape along walls — at humidification the top layer can be swelled. 90005 90004 Inadvertent puttying of joints with the use of soft floor coverings — the joining lines of the sheets will be clearly visible. 90005 90042 90004 See also: The device of cement-sandy (wet) screed with their own hands 90005 90042 90002 VARIANTS OF CONSTRUCTION OF DRY SCRAP 90003 90004 90005 90004 «Classical» leveling (a), heat-sound-insulating (b), leveling and heat-soundproof (c).90005 90004 1. Edge tape made of polyethylene foam with a thickness of 3-5 mm. 90005 90004 2. Polyethylene film 90005 90004 3. Backfill from calibrated claydite gravel. 90005 90004 4. Moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Folded in two layers and fastened with screws and adhesive mastic. 90005 90004 5. Sound absorbing mat of high density from mineral wool thickness of 20 mm. 90005 90004 6. Separation layer of GVLV with a thickness of 12.5 mm. 90005 90004 7.Mat of mineral wool thickness 30-50 mm 90005 90086 Installation of dry screed VEGA 90005 90004 90005 90004 When installing a dry screed first of all, the overlap is tightened with a polyethylene film (a). Then, a self-adhesive edge band (6) is attached to the walls. Further, expanded clay gravel (c) and level it with a special rule with support slats and a bubble level (g). Finally, the floor elements (d, e) are mounted and the covering is laid (g) 90005 90132 Expert opinion 90133 90004 The advantages of the complete systems that KNAUF represents are that they contain everything necessary for the assembly of the structure, and the components are perfectly compatible, and the installation is clearly regulated.90005 90004 The substrate and edge band are provided, the optimal fraction of expanded clay gravel is selected. 90005 90004 The 131 Vega system in combination with a slab of thickness 140-200 mm has characteristics significantly exceeding the requirements of building standards (airborne sound insulation indexes Rw-52-57 dB, noise level index Lnw-56-60 dB). In this case, the mass of 1 mg of screed 50 mm thick is only about 40 kg / m 90139 2 90140. 90005 90042 90002 FLOOR TILE — ADVICE AND FEEDBACK FOR PROFESSIONALS 90003 90042 90146 Types of floor screed 90133 90004 90149 Wet brace 90150 90005 90004 This screed is a mixture of cement, filler and various additives, which, after combining with water, passes into a pasty state and then hardens to form a durable layer.Cement-sand mixture can be simple, and can be modified with various additives that reduce the risk of cracking, accelerating the processes of hardening and further finishing the floor. The solution prepared from such a mixture, more resistant to various loads during operation, better withstand atmospheric effects, water, low and high temperatures. In addition, the modified screeds are much more technological and easier to apply, and also allow for a smoother base. 90005 90004 90149 ADVANTAGES: 90150 90005 90158 90159 high strength; 90160 90159 wide scope of application — inside and outside the premises; 90160 90159 durability; 90160 90159 no special equipment and high qualification of the master is required; 90160 90159 the possibility of creating biases; 90160 90159 low cost.90160 90171 90004 90149 FEATURES AND DISADVANTAGES: 90150 90005 90158 90159 when applied, it is necessary to insulate the base from water penetration from the screed. This is achieved by organizing a waterproofing layer; 90160 90159 at the device of such a tie significantly increases the load on the base of the building 90160 90159 wet-type screed harden for at least 28 day. 90160 90171 90004 90149 INSTALLATION STAGES 90150 90005 90188 90159 Repair, dedusting, priming base.90160 90159 Mounting damper tape. 90160 90159 Applying a waterproofing layer. 90160 90159 Installation of beacons. 90160 90159 Preparation of the solution. Laying out the solution and leveling the rule. 90160 90199 90132 HEALY TIE 90133 90004 This type of screed appeared relatively recently. These compositions are produced on a cement base. When mixing a semi-dry screed, water is added to it in much smaller amounts than in a wet-type screed. 90005 90004 90149 ADVANTAGES: 90150 90005 90158 90159 does not require a pre-waterproofing layer; 90160 90159 dries faster than wet screed; 90160 90159 characterized by high strength; 90160 90159 forms a fairly even coating; 90160 90159 acceptable cost; 90160 90159 wide scope of application — inside and outside the premises; 90160 90159 the possibility of creating biases.90160 90171 90004 90149 FEATURES AND DISADVANTAGES: 90150 90005 90158 90159 the complexity of mixing the composition and create high-quality and homogeneous mass for screed by hand. This can be done only in special devices; 90160 90159 with insufficient water there is a high risk of cracking; 90160 90159 device screed requires special skills of workers. 90160 90171 90236 COUNCIL OF PROFESSIONAL 90237 90004 Scope 90005 90004 Optimal 90149 wet screed application — leveling floors outside 90150 premises, inside unheated premises, blind area, raising the floor level in garages, basements, on the first floors of buildings.90005 90004 The semi-dry screed is recommended for rooms in which it is necessary to reduce the amount of dirty work and the likelihood of leakage. 90005 90004 In cases of tight repair time, if there is a need to perform the process at sub-zero temperatures or when other types can not be used, a dry screed is used. Such a screed is preferred for older buildings, where the load on the floor is important. 90005 90004 90149 INSTALLATION STAGES 90150 90005 90004 Repair, dedusting, priming, mounting the damper tape, marking the floor, installing beacons is the same as in wet screed technology.90005 90004 Preparation of the solution. The solution is kneaded automatically, immediately in a pneumosupercharger. 90005 90004 Backfilling. Since the semi-dry screed is made of loose material with a low water content, it is poured from the pneumosupercharger at the beacons, leveled with a rule, and then tamped with a vibrator or manually. 90005 90004 Finishing. The screed must be dry for 24 hours before finishing. Next, make processing using a trowel. 90005 90132 Dry floor screed 90133 90004 A dry screed is a backfill material (usually expanded clay), which serves to raise the floor level, and a sheet material (usually a gypsum-fiber sheet) that fits onto the expanded clay with two layers of overlap.90005 90004 90149 ADVANTAGES: 90150 90005 90158 90159 no dirty processes; 90160 90159 quick installation, after the device the coupler is immediately ready for finishing; 90160 90159 possible alignment of significant thickness; 90160 90159 low weight of the screed, reducing the load on the base; 90160 90159 heat and sound insulation properties. 90160 90171 90004 90149 FEATURES AND DISADVANTAGES: 90150 90005 90158 90159 Avoid contact with water. For this reason, this method of leveling the floor is not suitable for a bathroom or kitchen, as well as for unheated rooms; 90160 90159 weak resistance to mechanical loads.This screed is suitable only for rooms with minimal loads; 90160 90159 low strength properties; 90160 90159 violation of the technology of the device leads to rapid destruction of the whole structure 90160 90159 there is a strict limit on the minimum thickness of the alignment; 90160 90159 it is applied only in dry rooms; 90160 90159 high price. 90160 90171 90004 90149 INSTALLATION STAGES 90150 90005 90188 90159 Mounting damper tape, installation of vapor barrier with overlap on the walls.90160 90159 Backfilling of the leveling layer (claydite). Alignment along removable rails. Some types of backfill require layer compaction. 90160 90159 Installation of sheets GVL in several layers overlap. 90160 90199 90004 We thank Unis for assistance in preparing the material. 90005 90042 90004 SILENT AND WARM FLOOR WITH YOUR OWN HANDS 90005 90004 «Floating» concrete screed is advisable when it is necessary to provide reliable thermal and sound insulation. It is placed on an insulation layer so that it does not come in contact with the concrete floor or the wall.90005 90004 90005 90004 MATERIALS 90005 90158 90159 Screed solution 90160 90159 Primer 90160 90159 Fibrous insulation material 90160 90159 Polyester film or roofing material 90160 90171 90004 INSTRUMENTS 90005 90158 90159 Shovel 90160 90159 Broom 90160 90159 Bucket 90160 90159 Brush 90160 90159 Brush 90160 90159 Concrete mixer and mortar pump (for large volumes of work) 90160 90159 Building level 90160 90159 Hydro level 90160 90159 Tire or board for leveling the solution 90160 90159 Grater 90160 90159 Trowels for laying and smoothing mortar 90160 90171 90004 Important! 90005 90004 A tie is called floating if it is not in contact with the building structures.This prevents the formation of cold bridges. 90005 90004 90149 SWIFT TIE WITH OWN HANDS 90150 90005 Floating screed do it yourself 90188 90159 The film thickness of 0,2 mm in order to avoid the flow of the solution is better to lay in two layers and, if possible, straighten without stretching. 90160 90159 A special additive makes the solution more elastic, prevents the exfoliation of water and improves the properties of the mixture. 90160 90159 A strip of expanded polystyrene is used as an insulating gasket between the screed and the wall.90160 90159 After smoothing the solution, the guide rails are immediately removed, and the grooves from them are filled with the solution. 90160 90159 To level the mortar with a board-rule, use guide rails set on a level. 90160 90159 The prepared solution is placed on the base and leveled. 90160 90159 On large areas, a concrete mixer and a solution pump will be required. 90160 90159 The laid solution level with a grater. Possible air bubbles must be filled with a solution. 90160 90159 Minor irregularities smooth steel trowel, giving the surface of the screed final shine.90160 90199 90042 90388 90389 Installation of dry screed KNAUF — video 90003 90004 © Author: V. Grigoriev 90005 90393 90394 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90395 90237 90132 Below other entries on the topic «How to make your own hands — a householder!» 90133 90159 As with the help of improvised means, you can measure the required amount of fertilizer Memo for the gardener — the mass… 90160 90159 404: not found We bring you our apologies … 90160 90159 Laying the floor board — the calculation table How to calculate the thickness of boards and … 90160 90159 Solutions for processing and spraying seedlings by hand How to prepare solutions for seedlings … 90160 90159 Siderata pests — which of which? Table memo CROPS OF SIDERATS IN AUTUMN — FROM … 90160 90159 Calendar protect the garden from diseases — Memo gardener STEP-BY-TIME GRINDING PROCESSING OF THE GARDEN-GARDEN FROM… 90160 90159 Modern light sources instead of light bulbs What to illuminate the house instead of light bulbs … 90042 90146 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90133 90146 Let’s be friends! 90133 90160.90000 How to Choose a Floor Structure 90001 90002 At the dawn of the new millennium, many new homes were still being built to a formula little changed since the Victorian era, with solid concrete slabs downstairs and boarded 8x2inch timber joists ‘up top’. But both types suffered from significant drawbacks. 90003 90002 Timber floors were constrained by stunted spans and prone to developing draughty gaps and annoying squeaks; their intolerance to damp also rendered them vulnerable to attack from fungal decay and beetles.Concrete slabs fared little better, with a tendency to sink and crack over time, and a propensity to conduct cold into the home. 90003 90002 Fortunately, in the intervening years, technology has leapt ahead, transforming the options available to domestic buildings. Over the forthcoming pages we explore the options available for both ground and first floors. 90003 90008 90009 Beam and block floors are the most popular solution when building a ground floor on self build sites. Concrete slabs are a good alternative for small extensions (where beam and block floors are uneconomic) 90010 90009 Beam and block systems which utilise insulated blocks can provide an even quicker installation 90010 90009 Solutions for first floors include traditional softwood joists, timber I-joists or open metal web joists; the latter options are more expensive but provide considerable benefits.Unlike softwood joists, timber I-joists do not warp over time, providing a ‘quiet floor’, while open metal web joists can provide an easy means of installing services 90010 90015 90016 Beam and Block Ground Floors — The Most Popular Option 90017 90002 Suspended concrete flooring systems were originally developed as a means of overcoming ground problems such as unstable sloping sites, where it made sense to bridge deep gaps rather than fill them. Today, nearly all new houses employ beam and block construction for their ground floors.Although the cost of materials is relatively high, ground preparation is minimal and a beam and block floor is quick to install, with significant savings in labour. 90003 90002 Standard concrete beams typically span up to 6m, although some can extend as much as 8m without support from expensive subfloor walls. Specialist suppliers can custom design beams if supplied with a set of approved drawings, or they can be ordered via builders ‘merchants. 90003 90008 90009 The pre-cast reinforced concrete beams are laid in rows in a similar fashion to traditional timber joists, with their ends resting on the inner leaf of the main walls over the damp-proof course (DPC).90010 90009 Their inverted T profile is designed to accommodate standard 100mm deep concrete blocks (which are typically 440mm wide), making infilling between the rows remarkably quick and inexpensive. 90010 90009 Standard beams are 150mm deep, although for longer spans deeper 225mm sizes are available. 90010 90009 For greater strength the rows can be laid closer together with the blocks instead laid sideways. The floor surface is then stabilised by grouting with a weak sand / cement mix brushed into the joints.90010 90015 90002 It’s essential that the void under the floor (which should be at least 150mm deep) is 90033 vented via airbricks 90034 in the lower walls to protect the building from any build up of noxious gases such as 90033 radon or methane 90034. (On this note, you may be required to install a radon barrier and sump too by Building Control.) The void can also provide a handy place to run service pipes. 90003 90002 One slightly odd quirk with these floors is their slight 90033 upward camber 90034 (more than 10mm over a 4m span).This is not a problem with a conventional screed finish, but with dry floors (such as ‘floating’ insulated chipboard panels) a self-levelling compound may first need to be applied. 90003 90002 90003 90044 1. Concrete block; 2. Outside wall; 3. Concrete block / inner wall; 4. Sleeper wall; 5. Concrete beam 90045 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 The main drawback with beam and block floors is that they are uneconomic below about 50m2 — so they are not a solution for small extensions.It’s also important to note that the heavy weight of longer span beams requires use of a small crane to lift them into place. Therefore, they are best suited to 90033 larger projects such as new builds 90034. 90003 90002 On the positive side, unlike timber floors, suspended concrete does not shrink, creak or bounce. This makes the system 90033 well-suited for upper floors 90034 which need to be exceptionally strong. 90003 90002 90033 Best for: 90034 90003 90008 90009 Larger projects such as new builds 90010 90009 Upper and ground floors where a greater degree of strength is required 90010 90015 90002 It’s essential that suspended concrete floors are properly insulated from blasts of cold air blowing through the subfloor void underneath your feet.The Building Regulations » backstop ‘target U value for ground floors is 0.25W / m2K, which should be easily achievable with 75mm or 100mm-thick rigid insulation boards laid over the surface. 90003 90002 Polyurethane (PUR) is a more effective insulator than expanded polystyrene (EPS), meaning a thinner board can be laid to achieve the same results. The insulation can then be covered with a conventional wet sand / cement screed of approximately 65mm thick, or with a dry floating chipboard deck. Alternatively, a highly insulated composite ‘floating floor’ finish can be applied using special panels made from insulant material bonded to a base of either plywood or chipboard laid over a polythene vapour barrier.90003 90002 However, the most efficient solution combines two layers in one — minimising the depth of the floor by making use of the wasted space in the void below. Rather than adding an extra layer of insulation above standard blockwork, the insulation is incorporated into the structure. Systems such as Jetfloor, Litecast XT and TETRiS use special insulated polystyrene infill panels between and beneath the floor beams, helping to eliminate cold bridging. 90003 90016 Hollow Core Ground Floors — An Even Quicker Solution 90017 90002 The quickest way to construct an entire floor is by craning in enormous ready-made hollow core concrete flooring planks.These feature a hollowed-out interior to reduce their weight. 90003 90002 Inevitably the price you pay for super-swift buildability is the relatively high upfront cost, but the system also offers potential savings in terms of flexibility in the location of internal walls, which can be built on top without the need for additional support. Hollow core decks are used mainly for 90033 upper floors in flats 90034, but are ideal for 90033 cantilevered balconies 90034, although cold bridging can be a potential design issue.90003 90008 90009 Quick installation 90010 90009 Places where flexibility is needed for the placement of internal walls on top 90010 90015 90016 Concrete Ground Floors — A Good Option for Extensions 90017 90002 Ground floors built of solid concrete remain popular with small builders and can often be an economic solution for home extensions. Although this method is very labour intensive, the 90033 cost of materials is relatively low 90034, hence the appeal for DIYers with access to free labour.90003 90002 But there’s a risk with solid slabs. Whereas foundations are normally dug down at least a metre to anchor the building into solid ground, floor slabs sit on the cleared oversite, less than half a metre deep. So this 90033 is not ideal on soils prone to seasonal movement 90034, like shrinkable clay with trees in the vicinity. 90003 90002 90003 90044 1. Concrete block / innerwall; 2. Outside wall; 3. Hardcore infill; 4. Damp-proof membrane; 5. Sand blinding; 6. Min 100mm concrete 90045 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 Slabs rely on careful ground preparation and a well-compacted hardcore base.Unfortunately, this often gets skimped on site with the result that slabs can start to sink years later, leaving a cracked, hollow surface. So, as a precaution, the concrete can be strengthened by incorporating sheets of steel mesh, similar to raft foundations designed to span across patches of weak ground. 90003 90002 It’s also important that hardcore is specified as ‘clean’ — old demolition rubble containing lumps of plaster and wood can hold moisture or start to rot. Worse still, chemical reactions in poor-quality hardcore can cause solid floors to expand, bulge and crack.However, despite such risks, when laid correctly this method can be a 90033 cost-effective solution 90034. 90003 90008 90009 Extensions 90010 90009 Stable ground 90010 90009 DIY builds 90010 90009 Budget builds 90010 90015 90016 Installing a Concrete Slab 90017 90002 Solid concrete floors are typically built in six layers (plus two more if you include underfloor heating and the floor coverings). The key stages are: 90003 90120 90009 The oversite area is stripped of vegetation and topsoil.Then a base of clean hardcore at least 100mm thick is laid. The ideal material for this purpose is a loose granular sub-base such as MOT Type 1, which can be delivered to site. Being largely self-compacting, this only requires a quick going over with a hired wacker plate before levelling with a layer of sand blinding. 90010 90009 To prevent any dampness percolating through, a 1,200 gauge plastic sheet damp-proof membrane (DPM) is placed over the sand blinding, or alternatively laid higher up on top of the concrete slab.Either way, the edges must be joined up with the DPC (damp-proof course) in the walls. It’s common for flooring-grade rigid insulation boards (e.g. PUR) to be placed on top of the DPM at this stage, in thicknesses ranging from 50mm to 100mm. 90010 90009 The DPM must be lapped up around the edges of the slab and screed to protect against cold bridging and also around incoming water pipes and soil stacks, etc. Alternatively, the insulation can later be placed on top of the concrete slab prior to screeding.90010 90009 The slab is normally at least 100mm thick, cast from ready-mixed concrete (a relatively strong mix). The fresh concrete needs to be ‘tamped’ as it’s poured to remove air bubbles and excess water. Depending on ground conditions, the slab may need strengthening with steel mesh or special fabric reinforcement. 90010 90009 It takes two or three days for concrete to cure and in cold weather it needs to be protected with suitable sacking or old carpet. In hot weather, concrete can also be vulnerable to drying out and cracking, requiring a periodic light sprinkling of water.Concrete should not be poured when temperatures are below about 5 ° C. 90010 90009 Instead of finishing the slab with a conventional screed, it’s perfectly feasible to level the surface of the slab with a power floater, which results in a hard-wearing floor finish. Insulation will need to be added below the slab in this instance. 90010 90133 90016 Floor Structure Options for First Floors 90017 90002 Timber floors may largely be a thing of the past downstairs but they still enjoy a virtual monopoly upstairs.Kiln-dried softwood joists typically span up to about 4.5m between structural walls or steel beams. Joist ends must be supported from galvanised steel joist hangers rather than simply being embedded within the walls. 90003 90002 Softwood joists are available in standard sizes such as 38x225mm and their spacing determined by published span tables, usually at 400mm, 450mm or 600mm centres. To support partition walls and accommodate openings for staircases, for instance, the rule of thumb is for joists to be ‘doubled up’, although building control will want to see the structural engineer’s calculations to confirm adequacy.90003 90002 90003 90044 90033 Suspended timber: 90034 90045 90044 1. Metal joist hanger; 2. Herringbone strut; 3. Outside wall; 4. Concrete block inner wall; 5. Concrete oversite; 6. Wooden joist 90045 (Image credit: Homebuilding & Renovating) 90002 To prevent joists deflecting and wobbling about, bracing in the form of herringbone strutting needs to be inserted between the joists, usually comprising purpose-made steel X struts and wooden noggin offcuts. Steel straps also help prevent movement by tying floors to the main walls.The enduring popularity of timber floors is probably down to the fact that they’re a 90033 relatively inexpensive option 90034 as well as being straightforward to build and easy to adapt on site. 90003 90002 Traditional pine boards cost about twice the price of chipboard (which must be of a moisture-resistant type), but are hard to beat for natural appeal. Timber is also the 90033 most sustainable option 90034 but has a tendency to suffer from 90033 shrinkage 90034 resulting in floors becoming squeaky over time, and is always potentially vulnerable to subsequent weakening from careless notching and drilling for pipe and cable runs.90003 90016 Timber I-Joists — Creating a Quiet Floor 90017 90002 Today the upper floors in most new homes are built using factory-made timber I-joists (also known as I-beams). These are basically timber RSJs (rolled steel joists) with an I-shaped cross-section comprising top and bottom flanges made of softwood or LVT (laminated veneer timber) bonded to a tall vertical web of OSB (oriented strand board), or a similar engineered board. Their main appeal is that, being strong and lightweight, they can span 6m or more, without support from internal walls or beams.90003 90002 While they 90033 cost roughly twice as much as standard softwood joists 90034, they be 90033 installed in half the time 90034. Their superior rigidity and strength-to-weight ratio makes for easier handling, and they typically feature pre-formed knock-out panels designed for pipes and cables to be threaded through. They can be cut to length and the webs can be drilled, but the top and bottom flanges must not be cut. To provide lateral support, ‘blocking panels’ made from strips of engineered wood or spare I-joist offcuts are wedged between the joist ends.90003 90002 There’s another reason why I-joists have captured the hearts of developers, self builders and renovators alike — unlike standard softwood joists, 90033 I-joists are not prone to shrinking and warping 90034, making them perfect for ‘quiet floors’. It’s even claimed that some products do not require sound insulation when installed at 400mm centres or closer. 90003 90008 90009 Speed ​​of installation 90010 90009 Quiet floors as they are not prone to shrinking or warping which causes squeaking 90010 90009 Spanning 6m or more without support from internal walls or beams 90010 90015 90002 90003 90044 The 90045 90044 Metsä 90045 90044 Wood Finnjoist 90045 (Image credit: Metsä) 90002 90033 I-joists: A Good Alternative to Softwood joists 90034 90003 90002 Timber I-joists are a popular alternative to softwood joists due to their stability (they’re not prone to warping, so provide a ‘quiet floor ‘) and ability to span greater widths.The webs can be drilled to accommodate services, but can also be specified with pre-formed knock-out holes for this purpose 90003 90002 Engineered joists with a wavy metal web centre are another recently adopted flooring solution, with a plethora of different brand names such as Ecojoists, Posi-Joists, easi-joists (Fforest Timber Engineering’s easi-joists are shown above) and SpaceJoists. Typically 90033 costing about 10 per cent more than timber I-joists 90034, they are 90033 extremely strong 90034, capable of achieving unrestricted spans of up to 7.5m, and 90033 light 90034 enough to easily carry up a ladder with one hand! 90003 90002 90003 Self build package company Potton specified MiTek Posi-Joists when constructing the first floor of its latest Passivhaus-standard show home (Image credit: Potton) 90002 Like I-joists, they have a top and bottom flange (chord), but are held together by a galvanised steel framework. They come in a range of depths, from 195mm to 304mm, and can be hung from the top or the bottom chord. The installation time is claimed to be around half that for the traditional softwood variety, plus there’s no need for bracing, which helps to reduce labour costs.Like I-joists they have the benefit of not being prone to shrinkage-related problems. 90003 90002 Because the whole system is open, they can 90033 accommodate bulky service runs 90034 such as mechanical ventilation ducting and full bore 100mm waste pipes, although where different lengths run alongside each other you need to check the webs all line up. The main drawback — apart from the cost — is that they need to be custom made to suit the dimensions of your build and can not be cut on site to fit, although some suppliers incorporate adjustable ends for minor trimming.90003 90008 90009 Easy handling so they require no additional plant hire 90010 90009 Accommodating services and cabling 90010 90009 Covering spans of up to 7.5m 90010 90015 90016 Soundproofing First Floors 90017 90002 Thermal insulation is only necessary in rare cases where upstairs rooms happen to be located above cold spaces like garages or passageways. But Part E of the Building Regulations does require floors to be insulated for sound. The simplest method to deaden impact sound (e.g. noise from people walking upstairs) is by laying thick carpets and underlay.The spaces between the joists can also be packed with sound-absorbing mineral wool (up to 80 per cent depth). 90003 90002 Alternatively, special acoustic flooring, such as pre-insulated chipboard panels, can be used to build a sound-deadening floating floor. Other methods include fixing ‘resilient bars’ to the undersides of joists prior to plasterboarding; British Gypsum’s Gypframe RB1 Resilient Bars is one such product. 90003 90002 Where resistance to the passage of sound is a particular design factor, suspended concrete flooring is normally the best solution.There are systems such as the beam and pot system from Litecast that can achieve exceptionally high performance with specially formulated ‘robust tray tiles’ between the concrete beams. Whatever your choice of flooring, it’s obviously best to avoid cutting holes in ceilings for recessed lighting; a better idea is to construct a false suspended ceiling underneath to run ducting and lighting. 90003 90016 Other Things to Consider When Choosing a Floor Structure 90017 90002 Of the common go-to options (concrete, beam and block and suspended timber), concrete is the cheapest, and beam and block the most expensive.Basic suspended timber is affordable, but I-joists and open metal web joists are more commonly chosen for their versatility which comes at an added cost. 90003 90002 Average costs (including insulation and labour): 90003 90008 90009 Suspended timber = £ 58 / m² 90010 90009 Concrete = £ 56 / m² 90010 90009 Block and beam = £ 81 / m² 90010 90015 90002 Most self builders now fit underfloor heating into their homes. Just how well this works depends, to a great extent, on the floor construction. Concrete floors are ‘high mass’ and will act like a giant storage heater, staying warm for many hours without any heat source.90003 90002 In contrast, a timber-based floor is relatively ‘low mass’: underfloor heating in a timber floor therefore tends to heat up (and cool down) fairly rapidly, more like a conventional radiator system. So, to benefit from the slow, passive heating of concrete floors, you have to actually be in occupation, preferably 24/7; if you are there for just a few hours a day, you’d be better to opt for a quick-response heating system. 90003 90002 Consider how you plan to run cables and pipes through your floor void.With a precast floor, you have little option but to hang a suspended ceiling below the floor. Timber joists can be drilled out or chipped away (with caution) but it is not straightforward. Step forward the timber I-joist and its cousin, the posi-joist. They are more expensive than traditional timber joists, but they are much faster to fix and, critically, they are far easier to run services through. 90003 90002 The decision of what floor you will build needs to be made early on in the design process.This is because there is one crucial part of the design — the finished floor levels — that has to be resolved as early as possible, because so many other factors are derived from it, i.e, the staircases are set by it; so too the room height and the door thresholds. 90003 90002 It is now a requirement of the Building Regulations to insulate ground floors. The standard method is to lay sheets of polystyrene or similar above the ground floor and then lay a screed or a timber floor over. But some systems incorporate insulation within the floor itself, such as Tarmac’s Heatsave Plus.90003 .90000 Renovating Old Floors | Homebuilding 90001 90002 When renovating a period property you are likely to find yourself faced with floors that are less than ideal in terms of our modern expectations. They can be uneven, damp or cold — or often all three. 90003 90002 Happily, whether you wish to restore your old floors to their former glory, or plan on replacing them with something entirely new, there is a solution out there. 90003 90002 Your first task when taking on the job of renovating old floors is to investigate the subfloor.90003 90008 Assessing the Subfloor 90009 90002 Original Timber Floorboards 90003 90002 In the case of original timber floorboards, you might well discover that the timber joists that form their underlying structure have begun to rot, whilst little thought is likely to have been given to insulation. 90003 90002 It was very common for quarry tiles and parquet, as well as flagstones, to be laid on nothing more than earth, ash or sand. While this in itself is not a huge problem, it makes for a very cold floor underfoot as there is rarely any insulation and, in the case of parquet, can mean damp can sometimes come up through the floor, particularly if a covering such as a thick rug is laid over it.90003 90002 The thing about these floors is that they were 90017 designed to be ‘breathable 90018’ and to absorb and evaporate moisture from the whole surface area with no damage to the materials used. 90003 90002 Problems here only generally occur when they are covered over with a non-breathable material, or an unsuitable insulation is laid beneath them for warmth. 90003 90002 90003 90024 Excavating an old floor in order to lay a new 90025 90024 limecrete 90025 90024 slab (made up of aerated aggregate mixed with a hydraulic lime binder) before relaying the original covering overcomes issues caused by modern non-breathable insulation materials 90025 ( Image credit: Mike Wye) 90002 One solution is to take up the tiles, stone or parquet or timber and dig out the floor to a level that will 90017 allow for insulation, a damp-proof membrane, concrete and your new floor covering 90018.The problem is that the majority of insulation materials for solid floors rely on an impervious damp-proof membrane to keep the insulation dry. 90003 90002 The insulation materials used also need to be able to withstand the weight of the concrete slab or screed being laid on top of them, limiting the choices of insulation to those which are basically impervious to air and moisture, which will disrupt the moisture balance in quarry tiles and flagstones or any other original permeable materials you might find yourself with, such as brick.90003 90002 Taking up your floor and relaying it on a concrete sub-floor with a damp-proof membrane can cause salts within the old floor to come to the surface and these, in turn, can absorb moisture from the air and result in a damp floor. Of course, you could just cover them with a floating engineered wood floor and keep your fingers crossed, but you’re likely to run into problems with damp in the future. 90003 90008 Tile, Stone and Parquet Floors 90009 90002 90003 (Image credit: getty images) 90002 In the case of tiles, flagstones or parquet that has a base of earth, ash or similar you have several options.90003 90002 One is to leave well alone and just accept that old houses come with old floors — and then invest in some warm and cosy slippers. However, for most people, a resolution more in-keeping with our modern expectations of comfort is required. 90003 90002 If you are keen to retain the original floor finish, one solution is to carefully take up the tiles, stone or parquet before digging out the floor beneath to a level that will allow for insulation, a damp-proof membrane, concrete and, finally, the old floor covering.90003 90002 90017 Great care will need to be taken when removing the old covering 90018 — the likelihood is that there is only one way it will all fit back together again, so keeping track of which tile or parquet block went where is vital. 90003 90002 Secondly, the majority of modern insulation materials for solid floors rely on an impervious damp-proof membrane to keep the insulation dry. Using these will throw the moisture balance of materials such as quarry tiles, brick, flagstones and even parquet, out of kilter.This means that damp could become an issue where it was before kept under control. 90003 90008 Insulating Old Floors 90009 90002 There are now methods for insulating under these old floor coverings in ways that will not interfere with their breathability. 90003 90002 There is a range of relatively new materials that have the ability to absorb and emit moisture, something many standard modern systems fail to do. These materials can also be laid successfully with underfloor heating. 90003 90002 One such product is Limecrete.Another product of interest for those considering this job is GLAPOR recycled foam glass from Ty Mwar. 90003 90008 What is Limecrete? 90009 90002 «Limecrete floors provide a middle ground between modern concrete floors, with damp proof membranes and truly traditional vernacular floor construction,» explains Historic Building Consultant Peter Hayes. «Limecrete floors are made up of aerated aggregate mixed with a hydraulic lime binder. The lack of fine material in the sub-base resists the passage of ground moisture through it.The ‘honeycomb’ structure of floor aggregate also provides good insulation. 90003 90002 Depending on the aggregate used, limecrete floors can be thinner than modern floor slabs, meaning removal of less soil from a site and reducing the potential for disruption or undermining of the wall’s substructure. » 90003 90002 Adding insulation and a membrane beneath old floors is a disruptive job which, if you are living within the project, will cause upheaval. However, it is well worth it in the end. 90003 90002 The floor will need to be dug up to the required depth before the ground is levelled and compacted.A breathable membrane is then laid, before the insulating materials. If you are fitting underfloor heating, this will be fitted before the new flooring is laid or the original put back into place. 90003 90002 90003 90024 Adding some kind of breathable insulation to a floor base is key to it performing to modern standards, but the additional build-up required can be hard to accommodate 90025 (Image credit: Alistair Nicholls) 90008 Repairing Wood Floors 90009 90002 In the case of timber floor structures, the most common underlying problems relate to rotten timber joists.90003 90002 If only smaller areas of timber are damaged it is usually easy enough to repair them like-for-like, but if the entire area is badly damaged it is well-worth considering a complete replacement. You might well decide to do this yourself, but a skilled joiner or floor specialist will be able to help. 90003 90002 An alternative to a timber replacement is a steel i-beam system, such as Fastslab from CDI. This is a steel web hybrid system that spans from wall to wall and will not rot over time.90003 90002 90003 90024 If your timber floor is very badly damaged, it is worth considering a complete replacement — check that the underlying joists are not rotten before doing this 90025 (Image credit: Fired Earth) 90002 «Problems with damp can occur when people take up a timber floor and fill in the void below before putting a concrete slab over the top, «explains CDI’s Director Paul Larnach. «We replicate the existing timber floor joist system with Fastslab, maintaining the void to allow proper airflow.»90003 90002 When it comes to the floor joists on the first floor, it pays to ensure that they are reinforced. «A product such as Lewis Deck is perfect for reinforcing timber first floors, although it is used on ground floors too,» explains Paul. It is made up of steel dovetailed sheets, 16mm in height. These fit together over the existing or replacement joists, before concrete or a free-flowing screen is laid on top. 90003 90002 «It strengthens the existing floor and also has really good acoustic properties — so there is no sound transference between storeys.»90003 90008 Renovating Timber Floorboards 90009 90002 In the case of timber floorboards in need of some TLC, there are plenty of specialist floor renovation companies out there. It is also a job many people choose to take on themselves. 90003 90002 The work involves making gaps good, sorting out squeaks and scratches, and varnishing. 90003 90002 Professionals will charge in the region of £ 20-35 / m², meaning a typical 16m² dining room might cost in the region of £ 400. 90003 90002 If you are a confident DIYer, you should be able to do this for around £ 150.90003 90002 If you are planning on laying a floating floor — an engineered wood floor, for example — it will simply be a case of rectifying any squeaks and screwing down any loose boards before laying underlay and your new floor. 90003 90002 If it is tiles you are after and have a suspended timber floor then you can simply take up the boards and screw plyboard to the existing floor joists to get a nice level floor to tile on. 90003 90002 In the case of parquet flooring, sanding and finishing can be carried out fairly easily.If sections are badly damaged or loose, they can be taken up and replaced with new before the whole thing is varnished or sealed. 90003 90008 Restoring Quarry Tiles and Flagstones 90009 90002 Often laid on nothing but earth, sand or ash, part of the beauty of these tiles is that any moisture that comes up through them can simply evaporate into the air. 90003 90002 Traditionally they were usually treated with boiled linseed oil to make them more resistant to stains. Over time, however, this wears off and they become porous once more.90003 90002 If you plan on keeping the tiles, sealing them with a modern sealant can be a bad idea — moisture will become trapped beneath them and try to find another way out, often up the walls. Try breathable stains like Tile Doctor and some of the Lithofin products. 90003 90002 If you find the tiles are badly stained or covered in adhesive or paint, they can be cleaned using a mixture of natural stone cleaner and water. 90003 90002 Paint can be removed using something like Nitromors or a similar recommended paint stripper, but be sure to treat them with boiled linseed oil after they have been cleaned.90003 90008 Uneven Floors 90009 90002 Uneven floors can make laying a new floor covering, or relaying an existing flooring material, incredibly hard — floor tiles can crack, new timber floors will bounce and creak and carpet will sag and wrinkle. Thankfully there are ways to level them out. 90003 90002 90003 90024 Floors must be level before new flooring is installed — the best method will depend on the state of the floor. This new parquet floor is from 90025 90024 Fired Earth 90025 (Image credit: Fired Earth) 90002 The best method of preparing a floor for its new or restored finish will depend on many factors, including how uneven the floor is, the type of covering it is to receive and the quality of the existing floor.90003 90002 There are a huge number of bagged materials available for preparing a floor. Some are powders to which water needs to be added whilst others are supplied with a bottle of liquid to be used instead of water. The latter tend to be more flexible and stick better to poor substrates. 90003 90002 For very thin applications the materials can be applied with a trowel but are self-smoothing. For thicker sections there are materials that are truly self-levelling, minimising or eliminating the need for trowelling.90003 90002 In some cases it is possible to fix sheet materials to an uneven floor. These include ply, chipboard, gypsum or cement fibreboards or tile backer boards. 90003 .